The Via Francigena pilgrimage had been in the works for almost two years – August 28th to November 19th – generous time to walk, explore and then return by means of a transatlantic cruise.
In April of this year we learned our son and daughter-in-law were going to have a baby – the due date coincided with our walk.
Plane and cruise tickets had already been purchased and commitments to our pilgrim partners had been made. We decided to continue and make a plan when the time came.
Graciella was born October 8th.
Rome was five days out and the proud parents wanted some alone time. This allowed time to finish the Via, rest a couple days and fly home for some Gracie time.
Oh, to hold a grandbaby. What a miracle.
It was only 36 hours after arriving in Charleston that Bill and I looked at each other said let’s fly back to Italy and get on that ship. The boat sails in 14 days…
The cruise took off from Civitavecchia, an hour outside Rome. We stayed near the airport and meandered our way to the port.
First stop, Barcelona. We have great memories of our time here. I was particularly looking forward to seeing the progress of the Sagrada Familia. A Gaudí designed church. It’s a fantastical whimsical fortification – part adult hallucination part child’s mind. Within a year of the corner stone being set in 1882 Gaudí became the architect. He abandoned the original Neo-gothic theme for his own modernistic style. Rumor has it that the goal is to finish in 2026. This – Gaudí’s last project.
On the opposite end of the spectrum both in time and in design we toured his first commission, Casa Vicens. The juxtaposition from the start of his career to the end is a lesson in the creative mind.
The ship was scheduled to arrive in Funchal (an island just west of Portugal) in two days. However, a northerly storm with twenty foot swells put an end to that and we remain another day in Barcelona.
Tomorrow we head west, out into the Atlantic, where we will sail seven days to St. Maarten.
Today we went the office of the “Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi” in St. Peter’s Square for our Testimoniums (certificate for completing at least the last 100km of the Via). The pilgrims who started Canterbury get the same document.
It’s just like the Camino de Santiago. Walking the last 100km (62 miles) gets you a Compostela.
Chappy, Bill and I weighed ourselves. Bill was the winner at losing the most.
Bill and I hoofed it to our new luxurious hotel where we will veg for the next three nights. Soft sheets, a bathtub and a huge TV with English channels. Not sure if we’ll get out of bed tomorrow. 
Chappy, Darrell and Roxanne stopped by to check out our new digs and we all walked to see the Trevi Fountain (along with 1,000,000 other people) to hug it out and say goodbye.
Chappy is heading home tomorrow and Darrell and Roxanne are off to discover Italy by train.
Luxury is clean cloths!
Well done Pilgrims!
Obstacles to climb over…
95% was on pavement.
We’re staying at the Vatican Garden Inn. Don’t stay here!
Hotel Cassia is where we will rest our heads tonight. Twin beds in a private room. Clean.
Shorter is not always better. To save 3.5 miles we walked along loud busy roads. My umbrella warded off evil cars until we safely made it to a quite path that lead us into town.
We’re staying at 
Hard to believe that a day that starts with a rainbow turns out to be nuts literally and figuratively.
If we weren’t walking through a slippery, muddy rain forest with lots of obstacles we were walking thru miles of nut trees.
Bill twisted a muscle in his back so we hired Bags-Free to transport his pack from hotel to hotel. Chappy quickly decided that was a great idea and signed up too. I have to admit I loaded Bill’s pack with my clothes so that I could carry a lighter load.
There were spills and thrills today – not all for the faint of heart.
Darrell – Don’t drink the water here or you’ll get Giardino.
Fun day walking through an Etruscan Via Cava which I’ll translate as a road with tall lava walls.
Followed by lush farm land – a Clydesdale horse and super friendly donkey – nut trees and olive production.
We’re staying at Alberto da Benedetta. We’re happy to announce that we’ve ditched Ostellos (hostels). We’ve opted for more restful sleep.
Walked
Gear off.
Fellow
Breakfast
Olive harvest comb.
Picnic lunch.
We said goodbye to Lake Bolsena. The largest volcanic lake in Europe and considered to be the belly button of Italy.
Bill and I had an off day. Our packs didn’t set well. We walked down from Montefiascone and then became weary with the level shadeless terrain. Just one of those days…
Highlight! Roman road dating back to 150 BC.
Tonight we are staying at the Palazzo Riario. The gentleman that checked us in ran over to meet us at the hotel in his chef’s clothing. Often times hotels are not manned 24 hours a day. After checking in we promptly dumped our packs and followed him to his restaurant. It was fantastic!
Baby alert hence grandparent alert! Congratulations to Troy and Yessmy. Late last night Graciella Faye was born. She is absolutely beautiful and we can’t wait to meet her. Yay! Bursting with love.
Roman Road
Morning Snack
Belt Modification 
Lunch break
Baby Announcement 
Grocery
Roxanne’s post and photos:
South
Our 
Rainbows follow rain…
The clouds, mist and a dampened horizon were our first dose of pixie. Freshness.
Look below at the tiny people on the horizon.
Roxanne discovered pixie – potato fields. 
The next pixie was in the most enchanting forest covered with ivy and these tiny purple Shooting Star flowers. It was magical – as if Tinkerbell herself rolled out this delightful carpet.
Porcipine quill.
Followed by Lago Bolsena – silvery and calm with reflections of white puffy clouds.
Tonight we were staying at the Hotel Zodiaco. Super clean with balconies perfect for drying our clothes.
All this pixie followed by cheeseburgers and gelato.
“All you need is a little faith, trust, and pixie dust.”–Peter Pan
Field is French fries 
Lake Bolsena
Walked 
We’re staying at Eco Albergo Monte Rufeno and the heat is on… Heat is good after a long rainy day. Just like that – two weeks ago it was hot!Roxanne’s post and photos:
Chappy stretching his calves.
This is our last day in Tuscany. However, the terrain changed so dramatically we wouldn’t know – gone are the vineyards and olive trees.
It definitely feels like fall. The colors are captivating. Mother Nature decided to cloud up and rain. She didn’t listen to the weather forecasters – a woman after my own heart.
Our Via books told us it would be a relentlessly uphill climb today. We got all cocky when the trail had some ups but not too bad. Then all of a sudden, somewhat like Mother Nature, the relentless climb began.
Not sure what kind of devise you use to look at the photos but in many you will see a tower at the top of a hill far, far away (on a cell phone you’d have to zoom in). Well, it happens that often we climb to or from that spectacular thing in the distance. Hence, the climbing.
We’re staying at Albergo La Torre. It’s so cold in our room that we’re bundled up in bed and it’s only 3 pm.
Some burro time – miss our Baja burros.
Roxanne’s post and photos:
This little girl came running up to us and about tripped me trying to get some loving. I wanted to take her home.
I was a bit apprehensive waking up to the rain however we had prepared for it by buying great rain gear. So – off we went.
As I reached for my water bottle I remembered my sun umbrella which now became my rain umbrella. It also serves a a great tool for warning approaching traffic on blind turns – HA. Three uses in one. Not bad for 3 euros.
Walking through the woods felt like autumn.
A clay trail, that lined the edge of a large green field, was like glue – each step added layers of mud to the bottom of our feet. Step by step we soon had five pounds of mud to carry with us.
We came upon Marcello who had a rest stop outside his home offering food and drinks for a donation. It was such a wonderful treat!
The rain dissipated – the boys stripped and we carried on towards Siena.
We’re staying at the Albergo Bernini. Super clean and comfy. It has a wonderful host and two terraces with the most spectacular views!
Lovely Siena.
Roxanne’s post and photos:
We took this fabulous time machine up to the top for dinner and panoramic views.
Our B&B was so comfy and fabulous – the kitchen perfect for wine and then breakfast.
Today was a kaleidoscope of colors, shapes, forms, textures, terrain and people. The soil rich like dark chocolate. A simply stupendous day!
We’re staying at the clean and comfy B&B In Piazza – literally on the Piazza in this small but uber charming hilltop medieval walled city. 
Roxanne’s post and photos:
That’s San Gimignano way up there at the top of the last photo.
Saturday must be hunting day. One group told us they were looking for wild boar. It’s on every menu in this region. Some group of hunters had walkie talkies – some were alone. It was interesting that no one had a hunting dog. This man had a bird call.
It was a short day. We started out leisurely and ended by 12:30 where we walked straight into an Enoteca and had a marvelous lunch.
Colle di Val d’Elsa is another medieval town known for it’s production of crystal glassware and art.
Tonight we are staying at B&B Palazzo Beltramini. Again, we rented all the rooms and have the place to ourselves. Lucky us.
Today we walked with Diana from New Mexico. She’s here celebrating her 60th birthday year.
There’s many more pilgrims on the trail since Lucca. Some are going to Sienna and the others are going to Rome. On the Camino de Santiago everyone greeted each other with the phrase Buen Camino – here we just say Boungiorno.
Below is a picture of must which is left over skins, seeds, and stems of grapes used to make balsamic vinegar.
Vineyards and farmland.
The scenery is constantly changing.
We climbed to the stunning and heavily tourist filled town of San Gimignano – a medieval hill town and UNESCO World Heritage site. Known as the town of fine towers. Imposing on the inside. Marvelously massive on the outside.
Rooms are expensive and almost all of the hotels were full. We happened upon an apartment called Nacci Duccio. They had three super clean rooms with private baths and flowered toilet paper. We had the whole place to ourselves. Perfect!
We had a romantic dinner for five overlooking Tuscany. It was magical!
Roxanne’s blog and photos:
Walked to the town known for it’s tower houses, San Gimignano. 
Tanking up
Again Paige’s sewing skills saves the day! With pink thread and a needle, she repaired the holes in a pilgrim’s shoe. 
Teresa at the Vella della Certosa Bed and Breakfast explained that Italians like to sing their words so they pronounce every vowel in a word. 
Yes to the coldest morning yet – two long sleeved shirts and my coat. It took a couple of hours to de-layer down to a short sleeved shirt. By the end of the walk I was toasty in my pants.
Have you noticed in the photos that the sun is too often in my way? If we pilgrims could plan the Via we’d walk due South. However, the Via has us, again and again, going east and north. Everyday one of us bitches about it for a second or two and then we move on. It must be cathartic because there’s no reasonable explanation for the behavior.
To spice things up a bit we walk on roads with little to no shoulders. 
On this day the community offered super cool blister and cut first aid boxes.
Hello hills!
They look like rolling milk chocolate – plowed and ready to plant. 
And then… green.
The day was perfectly challenging.
We stayed at the fantastic Villa Della Certosa in a two bedroom suite. Chappy took the pull out sofa in the living room. Our host Theresa was the best – so helpful and kind! Felt like home.
Roxanne’s post and photos:
Ponte a Cappiano to San Miniato – 9.2 miles in 6 hours including breaks. It’s Wednesday September 26th.
We’re staying the super clean Ostello San Miniato. 
What a treat after last night’s grossly dirty Ostello Comunale Ponte dei’ Medici. We were charmed by the outside. Never judge a book by its cover. Take a look at the bedroom door. Ewww.
San Miniato is a hilltop town with panoramic views and is as charming as it gets.
The cool morning air allowed for long pants and a semi-heavy long sleeved shirt.
After a quick walk out of Altopascio we were greeted by a trail – a soft and cushy path. We needed this.
By 9:20 it was time to change into a thinner long sleeved shirt and by 11:00 I was wearing short sleeves.
We encountered two more pilgrims today – sisters from the USA. Today is their first day and they too are heading to Rome.
You were right Troy when you said we needed a morale booster. Thankfully, today was that day. Easy trail, cool temps and wind.
We’re staying at Ostello Comunale Ponte dei’ Medici. All five of us are sharing a room. 
Chappy’s bed broke – what do you expect for 20 euros?
After lunch Bill and I shared the best tiramisu we’ve ever had and Roxanne enjoyed a marscapone parfait with gluten free cookies.
It was a good day.
