Tag Archives: Los Barriles

It’s Baja Baby!

Where does time go? Seven months have whizzed by. It’s been a pretty low key travel year so far – Winter in Indian Wells in Southern California, spring in Charleston, South Carolina and now summer in Northern Nevada.

However, we’ve been so busy there’s often no time to breathe (except when in yoga).

If you recall we sold our Baja house three ago but retained a parcel that’s now been in escrow for two years.  Closing time is slowly approaching – the lawyers needed paperwork signed/delivered and we needed an excuse to leave the country…

So – hello Baja! It’s so exciting to be back.

We rented a car and took the new “bypass” road that runs from the pay road near the Los Cabos International Airport into downtown Cabo and then 4 miles north to the Cabo San Lucas International Airport to pick up our friend Clint who flew in from Puerto Vallarta. I wasn’t familiar with it but Bill flew there on private planes many years ago. It’s small and has only one commercial carrier that only flies domestically. Not sure why International is in its title. Perhaps it suffers from Napoleon complex.

Did I mention it was so good to be back?

We drove the corridor back to SJD to pick up Barb – stopping for photos, coconut in lime juice, dominos, and alcohol.

We headed to the East Cape staying at the Palmas de Cortez in Los Barriles for three nights.

Palmas sponsored the first all women’s fishing tournament and we arrived on its last day.  It was surprising yet exciting to see tables full of women at dinner. Apparently, the seas had been rough and the fish scarce but good times were had by all. They were already planning for next year’s tournament. Normally, fishing season is all about middle-aged, gray-haired, potbellied men. (click on photos to enlarge)

The fishing Gods blessed us with calm seas and hungry marlin. Each of us had a turn at exhausting our reeling muscles as the fish were plentiful. Like Pac-Man the guys were bumping into each other when three marlin were on the three different lines at the same time. It’s quite thrilling watching them jump in and out of the water.

With all that excitement I’ve determined that fishing is like skiing. Three hours and I’m good.

The sunrises, sunsets and moonrises were stunning.

And animals rule!  One of my favorite things about Baja. Unfortunately, we missed the burro pack.

What a difference to be in our old stomping grounds as a non-homeowner. Not a care in the world. To cure any remorse we might have conjured up about selling required a quick visit to our old house. While standing outside the fence, admiring the huge pool the new owners installed – the pool boys arrived and dumped an empty yogurt container full of chlorine in the pool and drove away. No vacuuming or scrubbing the sides.

Off to Clint and Barb’s old family house to see an even less cared for pool. Obviously no chlorine there!  When the owners are away…. its the Baja way.

Mañana doesn’t mean tomorrow. It means just not today!

Onward, an hour drive south to Cabo Pulmo for two nights. It’s a little piece of heaven possessing a UNESCO World Heritage site/Marine Park – a haven for scuba divers and snorkelers. It’s a dusty little town with no electrical service – running on solar power and generators.

We hung out with our favorite divemaster and longtime friend Pepe who runs Pepe’s Dive Shop and Pepe’s Pizza (y otra comida tambien) Restaurant. Look up Pepe if you make it to Cabo Pulmo. He’ll take great care of you!

Lastly, we stayed in old town San Jose del Cabo. The quaintness, walkability and dining options make it a super special place to be.

It was bittersweet having to leave. We didn’t get our fill but know it’s there for next time.

The longer way to Los Barriles

Two weeks before we were to go to our house in Southern Baja – Hurricane Odile swooped in and left a trail of destruction like never before in Cabo San Lucas. Businesses and families rattled to their core – the biggest in their history.

Fortunately, our home escaped with but only a good sandblasting of the paint and a couple trees uprooted. Days later banditos helped themselves to our televisions, kitchen appliances and blankets to wrap their loot in.

I struggled with trying to “not be angry” – we got off easy – our homes and jobs were not lost. We were spared.

Visions of the widely televised looting in Cabo danced in my head. What is wrong with these people?

That evening our local news said that the 3,000 people who were evacuated from the King fire in California came home to find their houses had been looted.

The Gringo Gazette – an English newspaper out of Cabo – had an article that defended the action of some. Saying (and I am not quoting) many of the looters had lived in Mainland Mexico and took jobs in Cabo only to lose their jobs (pre-hurricane) and have absolutely no money to return home much less afford to buy food to eat. Ok, I can wrap my head around that one – money to survive. But what’s up with – as we read today in the paper – the multiple police, government officials and even an American couple (top timeshares salesman at Pueblo Bonito) who freely took what was not theirs?

Rant over.

Since the airport in Cabo was closed we took the long way to Los Barriles. A several day stop over in hectic busting Mexico City ensured a much appreciated landing in La Paz.

The hurricane painted this place green the likes of which we have never seen. Such beauty.

We have enjoyed the quiet in Los Barriles the past several weeks – restaurants have been slow to open – not too many people in town. A sleepy existence and much appreciated.

Now , the airport in Cabo is open – flights are returning and things are happening. The town is waking up. Restaurants are filling up, the hardware store is bustling and quad noise is on the rise.

Best yet – Cabo is back in business. God bless them. Popular stores and restaurants are back in business – roofless – but in business. Tourists are trickling in – residents are working, people are rebuilding and stores are replacing looted inventory.

Life goes on…