Category Archives: Suriname

Back in Suriname

Back to Paramaribo, Suriname to finish what we started.  We met a great group of people on the border crossing boat who all spoke English.  A lady who currently lives in French Guiana having escaped Vietnam in 1975, a man from Laos and another from Cambodia all going to Suriname for the Easter weekend.

Like the masochists we are we decided to walk in the heat of the day to the Arya Diwaker Hindu Temple – a mere 5 plus miles. 


We passed through the bustling Central Market where herbs and dried greens were stacked high and sold for medicinal purposes.

Having been warned that the women shopkeepers didn’t like their photographs taken, I took heed and asked a gal for permission to take photos of her goods, promising to exclude her.  She kindly said yes and oh what a stir that caused.  Another shopkeeper came running up to cuss me out.  In my best English I told her to take it up with the person who gave me permission.  Bam.

We took a boat trip up the Suriname and Commewinje Rivers that led us to Nieuw-Amsterdam, Rust-Werk, Johan-Margaretha and Plantage Frederiksdorp.  Like visiting the landlocked country of Eswatini (Swaziland) last year – it felt a bit like forced tourism.  I’ll be kind and just say…

We enjoyed being on the water. The breeze from the boat’s movement cooled the pools of sweat on our bodies.  We played Where’s Waldo with the frolicking dolphins that live in the brackish waters.  Our boat weaved and bobbed in the swift river current.  It was the highlight of the day.

Plantage Frederiksdorp looked charming on the internet.  It’s an old plantation turned hotel/resort.  Our last stop.  A two hour stop!  UGH! Two hours.  It was suggested that we relax by the pool.  Apparently good and relaxing for people with no sense of smell!! The moldy, black, stagnant water sitting in the canals around the pool and bar reeked so badly that I had to hold my breath and briskly walk back towards the entrance to get some relief.  Poor Bill was also gagging but wondered where the fire was.  I didn’t want to have to take a breath until I was clear of the area.   Under the shade of a big tree we did relax and read.

Below the surface and unseen, drug and human trafficking are evil problem in these adjoining countries – a gateway to the United States and Europe.

Our take away from Suriname is the people.  Very warm and friendly.  We loved that, from our point of view, many cultures communed without animosity.   Our boat captain said it still a work in progress…

We’re super glad that we explored this part of South America.  It’s not on the bucket list for most Americans but we’re honored for having been the few.

From Bill:  Guyana in indigenous lingo means “Land of water” and included two additional land areas north and south prior to colonization. There is much water. Basically one paved road runs from Venezuela to Brazil on the coast where more than 50% of each country’s population lives.

The populations are very diverse, mostly from importing slaves, or post-slavery, “indentured workers” from Java, India and somehow, China. Its a bit strange to see some of these nationalities on horseback and tractors, or to hear unusual languages spoken by differing nationalities (e.g. Chinese speaking  French). However, the dominant nationality is African, presumably because there were more slaves than slave masters.

Suriname – the Smallest Nation in South America

The immigration process in Balate, Suriname was quick but the line that led to the counter was long.  We were the last to go through.

The van driver in Guyana said his brother would be waiting for us on the other side along with the same passengers.  Well that ship sailed and we were ushered into a small rickety non-van.  The only seats available – one in the second row and one in the pull down 3rd row next to the luggage.  I was snug as a bug and comfortable.  My view was hindered by the crusty filth on the windows, which bottled water and toilet paper couldn’t clean.  At least I had the luggage to lean on.

*click on photos to enlarge

** my dirty window is below

This part of the drive lasted 3.5 hours.  The young father of two sitting next to Bill started talking to us near the end of the trip.  He is an entrepreneur making and selling natural soaps, and edible food enhancement oils.  He spoke Dutch, English, and Creole. He’d been to the USA with a  UN learning program a few years back for 5 months.  Quite remarkable.

90% of Suriname is covered in rainforest.  The highest proportion of any country in the world per Wikipedia.

As early as the 4th millennium BC Suriname was inhabited by the indigenous.  The British arrived in the 16th century and then the Dutch took control in the late 17th century.  At this time the sugar industry was huge and plantation owners imported and used African slaves until it was abolished in 1863 – then indentured servants were brought over from Asia – the Dutch East Indies and British India.  In 1954 the Netherlands took control and finally, in 1975 Suriname gained its independence.

It is the only country outside of Europe that speaks Dutch.

Dutch

Our destination- Paramaribo – the capital.  Located on the banks of the Suriname River and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Suriname is one of the more diverse nations globally with no one ethnic group forming a majority.  Maroon, Amerindian, Chinese, Hindus, Javanese, Creole, Dutch live and worship side by side.  Add to that a mosque adjacent to a synagogue in Parbo (the local name for Paramaribo, as well as the popular local beer).

On Sunday Chinese and Javanese markets open up selling fruits, vegis and their national food dishes.

Downtown, the colonial Dutch architecture is stunning.  If I squint I glimpse Charleston.  Block after block of tall and proud homes line the streets.

 Crews were setting up for a huge Hindu celebration called Phagwah which was to take place the afternoon we were leaving.  A German singing sensation named The Gentleman (reggae music) and his entourage checked in our hotel with quiet fanfare – one of the headliners for the celebration.

Due to hotel availability, Easter, immigration office hours, etc we decided to head east to French Guiana allowing us to return to Suriname without interruption.

The process for getting to French Guiana was much like the last border crossing.  Land – river -land.  It took 2.5 hours by van to Albina which rests on the Maroni River that separates Suriname and French Guiana.

The ride was stunning.  There was a single lane in each direction with no traffic and not many buildings – it was mostly jungle. Goats and cows grazed in the side of the road.  Where there wasn’t jungle wide canals lined the road separating farmland from the beach on one side and jungle on the other.

As we neared French Guiana the iron rich ground gave way to sandy white soil.

A new high school has been built closer to Albina and children who once took a 2 hour bus ride to Paramaribo for a 7:00 am start time now get to sleep in.

It looks as though, in these three countries, that there is one road, north and south, two lane and paved.  Virtually any other road is dirt, except for the one to the gold mines.

They all seem to have some agriculture and industry between the shore and the jungle/mountains. There are livestock and cowboys on horses, but they don’t look like South American Gauchos.  The sky was gray from burning the jungle.

This immigration process took a whole minute – fastest one ever!

It was a short walk to the river where we boarded a long skinny wooden boat which delivered us to Saint Laurent du Maroni, French Guiana in 15 minutes and our next adventure begins….