#camino #finisterre #peregrino #pilgrim
June 7, 2016
Life is simple on the Camino – walk, eat, sleep, walk, eat, sleep, walk… Oh and follow the yellow arrows – sometimes it’s like “Where’s Waldo” but that’s part of the fun.Yesterday, June 4th we walked 26,850 steps and 11.38 miles into Santiago de Compostela. The crazy Peregrino video. Click here.
We had the best time and couldn’t have asked for better Camino buddies. Some picked up new trail names: Rocknstein and Chapmeister. Darrell had a love affair with Vino Verde. Bill managed to wear his flip flops everyday and was discovered to be a contrarian and I talked too much and was referred to as being a pain in the ass.
Bill did the math and realized that we spent approximately 400 awake hours together which equals about 5 to 10 years of socializing. Sort of like speed dating…Our bodies stood the test of time and distance. Consider the writing on a Pilgrim’s t-shirt: Know Pain Know Gain.We are Peregrinos!!!The video of our entry into Santiago de Compostela – click here.
Every morning we start with jackets, beanies and knee socks. The air is crisp. Within 2 hours we’ve worked up a sweat between our backs and packs – the rising sun forces us to exchange clothes for sunblock.
Below are photos taken in order so that you may enjoy the Camino with us.
Today we all felt like barn horses hoping to reach our hotel in Caldes de Reis (known for its thermal waters) sooner than later. We walked with purpose.
This day couldn’t have been more beautiful – magical in fact – from the weather to the Camino.We started out with a heart pounding – lung squeezing steep climb.We walked through fern forests, up narrow traversing streets, across a Roman bridge where the Spaniards beat Napoleon, quiet suburban neighborhoods and up again over mosaic rock paths worned by Roman chariots – topped off with song birds and crystal clear rivers with trout and fouls gold sparkling in the sun.
We walked 27,714 steps and 11.76 miles into Pontevedra, Spain – famous for seafood and the birthplace of the Santa Maria – the largest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus.
Bill and I slept with a mosquito last night. That darn thing buzzed our ears for hours. After jumping out of bed and turning on the lights 4 times trying to kill that f**king thing Bill ultimately smashed it in his ear. We only had 2 hours left to sleep.
Another glorious day through wooded areas on cushy paths and rural neighborhoods on pavement.
It was so good to be back on the Camino after 2 days and 3 inches of rain. Not to mention it is wonderful to be back in spectacular Spain!
España cares about marking the Camino, they cater to the Peregrino, the towns are lively but that darn siesta hour is so hard to get used to.
Our walk today was filled with delightful views, soft terrain, goats, sheeps, crosses, horses, Roman bridges, roses, kiwi farms, hydrangeas, trout streams, lots of pilgrims and Chappy’s bottom.
We walked 26,489 steps and 11.26 miles into Porriño, Spain.
Our day did not look like that. We had small towns, eucalyptus forests, hot houses, rockslide, detours, dirt paths, Hugh inclines and a marvelous day filled with the ever present f-ing dog barking.
The reason is – we walked 9 miles east of the Camino – following the yellow arrows the whole way! What the heck? Who put them there and why?
Miraculously we came upon a BMW filled with 4 people who with Darrell and Roxanne and weird cirtumstances too long and crazy to explain – determined that we were WAY off course. They became our saviors – ordered taxis to the town we were supposed to be in – Vilarinho (only 2 hours and 45 minutes away by walking).
Chappy, Rich, Ricardo, Grande, Cheapy, Richard and Dick has acquired a few new names along the Camino – Chapmeister, Cheapmeister and Ricky Alan not to mention the new 2 blisters on his toes. Every step reminds him that he’s alive!
My Fitbit said we walked 39,604 steps and 16.76 miles. Chappy’s GPS said 18.1 miles. Tomorrow should be around the same.
Things are “looking up” after a much anticipated 2 day rest in the charming city of Porto. The facades of the buildings are unique in character – from bright colored tiles, painted corrugated steel or stucco and balconies streaming with laundry.Not to mention the Duoro River, port wines and sardines.
Rumor has it that more people start their Camino here so we expect a crowd.
No highways today!
Wooded paths, floral paths, a few muddy paths and small town streets.
Today we feasted on Mealhada’s local speciality Leitão à Bairrada (suckling pig). Delicious!
36,654 steps and 15.53 miles.
Short day but our legs and feet are trashed – eating Ibuprofen like candy.
We started today in the fog – it was cool, mystical and invigorating -lifting by noon. It was hilly – testing our lungs – up and down – up and down. We followed a Roman road paralleled by stone walls – tall grasses, olive orchards, wine vineyards and colorful flowers – the muddy paths forced us to trespass. Then plan B – the occasion muddy path turned into MUD all the time. We headed for the highway and rural town roads. Pavement equals pain! It’s rough on the body.
We endured – walked 46,881 steps and 19.91 miles.
Now in Rabaçal, Portugal. Our pension is marginal at best. The only game in town. 29 beds but private rooms – $15 euro per person – sheets and scuzzy blankets – no towels. It’s a bed and we’re grateful.
Walked out of cloudy Lisbon on its famous limestone mosaic sidewalks to the riverfront area where the winds whipped off the waters and blew us around. Then there was rain…The pavement turned to a narrow path that follows the river. Rain + dirt = slippery ass mud!!
Impossible for Bill in his flip flops. Fall left into the fast moving river – fall right into flooded fields – so flooded – sounded like a waterfall – looked like a lake. It poured and poured. There was no relief and no town for a far as our eyes could see.
All of us quietly wondered if the path would run out….
4 hours, 2 snapped hiking poles and 10 falls (picture a turtle on its back) we reached pavement and a town. We made it!
44,103 steps – 18.66 miles.
We have hence learned that the first 3 days can be impassable even on a good day and certainly that after 3 rain filled days, because the trail is through alluvial plains and rice fields.
Here’s a video to get an idea: https://youtu.be/1SVXSGVZxtg