We have wanted to travel to the Middle East but never knew when the time was right.
Heeding the travel warnings would never get us there. Since we’re in the region and traveler’s current blogs say “no worries” Bill said “let’s go”.
Flying over Jordan was at first just miles of barren land. As the plane neared touch down this humongous beige city propped up on beige soil appeared out of nowhere. It was fabulous!
We’re doing this.
Sore throats made us want to head to bed. Instead we ventured out to tour Amman and the famous Citadel, considered to be amongst the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places and occupied by many civilizations dating back to 1650 BC.
*click on photos to enlarge
From the Citadel’s plateau there was a 360° view of the city where a Mosque seemed to be on every block and a symphony could be heard during the call to prayer.
Nestled at the base of the Citadel in the foothills of the city was the beautiful Roman theater dating back to their occupation in 30 BC.
Ashraf – a cabbie that we used for our drive back to the hotel soon became our ride and protector for the 2 day trip to Petra and the holy lands that lie in the south of Jordan.
Shobak Castle – known as Shawbok in Arabic. Sits high on a hill on the way to Petra. Built in 1115 by Baldwin I of Jerusalem – it was strategically placed on the caravan route between Syria and Arabia allowing Baldwin to manipulate commerce as everyone needed to pass by the castle.
It was enjoyable and at times eerie to soak it all in and try to visualize life within these ruins.
Petra (UNESCO World Heritage site) aka. The Rose City was the nomadic Arab Nabataeans’ capital city in 312 BC. Located on the trade route it became a large trading concourse. The Nabataeans were known for rock carvings and the ability to construct water collecting systems in the barren terrain.
Some of the rock carvings look as they were chiseled with modern day tools . Lines straight as an arrow and curves smoothed with sandpaper.
The camels, donkeys and horses of Petra were delightful.
Unbeknownst to us we had to walk through the Al-Siq gorge to get to the ancient carvings of Petra. It was much like the crescendo of some crazy Italian opera. The build up was insane – where were we going and what would be at the end? We weaved through 30 story high rock formations while gypsies drove past us on horses and carts at the speed of light to take lazy tourists to the first and most famous formation – the Treasury.
It all amounted to experiencing life past and present at its fullest.
Our little 2 star hotel in Petra respected the Muslim way and didn’t serve alcohol. So the heathens that we are left us no choice but to walk to the 5 Star Mövenpick Hotel for wine and dinner. What a way to top off our day.
We visited Jesus’ baptism site near the eastern shore of the Jordan River. Discovered in 1996 by archaeologists to be the actual site. Nearby, the River Jordan at the Israel (occupied Palestine as our guide informed us) Jordan border hundreds of Christians on the Israel side were either fully submerging themselves in the muddied waters or having the water poured over their heads by a clergy. On our Jordanian side a few people submerged themselves without all the fanfare.
The countryside is barren – speckled with bedouin camps, sheep, goats and camels.
We traveled to Mt. Nebo – 817 meters above sea level to where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land and Madaba to the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George to view its 6th century mosaic floor map of the Holy Land.
Lastly to the Dead Sea – 430 meters below sea level. We stayed there for the night, finally succumbing to our colds and dragging off to bed – missing a swim in the sea.
It’s wedding season and nuptials on Isla Mujeres off the coast of mainland Mexico prompted us to explore a couple of nearby Caribbean countries.
The most convenient jumping off point was Miami Beach – a quick acclimation and reboot for our brains because Spanish is the primary language.
*click on a photo to see a larger view
Isla Mujeres was a stunning backdrop for a picturesque wedding. Margaritas, scuba diving and basking in the Mexican surf and sun were the perfect recipe for a perfect wedding.
We sold our Mexican home in 2016 after 12 years of ownership and it felt so good to be back in the country.
Beach life leads to city life so we headed to Old San Juan, Puerto Rico – 2nd oldest city in the New World.
Beautiful blue cobblestone streets line this hilly town rich in Spanish colonial architecture and fantastic restaurants.
We explored the 500 year old Fort San Felipe del Moro (UNESCO World Heritage site) and Fort San Cristóbal.
A highlight was our stay at the 400 year old El Convento Hotel.
Off to Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic where the Zona Colonial is another UNESCO World Heritage site and rightfully named so.
A quick side note – UNESCO World Heritage Sites are spectacular! Use the link provided to read about them and be sure to add them to your list of “must sees” in your lifetime.
Santo Domingo was the first seat of the Spanish colonial rule in the New World and the site of the first university, cathedral, castle, monastery, and fortress (Wikipedia).
The buildings in the old town are breathtaking. Strolling the streets you will feel as if you have traveled back in time. Clean, with flowers spilling out of planters boxes and trees reaching for the sky.
Unfortunately, just outside historic Santo Domingo garbage lines the shoreline and poverty simmers at the surface.
A 9 hour commercial bus ride took us to Haiti where poverty has boiled over and covered the country.
The bus was not crowded and seats were comfortable. However, the toilet did not flush and overflowed from fullness onto the floor. I pulled up my pant legs so the bottoms didn’t get soaked and struggled to hold my breath from the stench. A brief moment of nausea followed by lots of hand sanitizer told me the adventure had begun.
A couple hours into the ride the bus pulled over to a hut and hot meals were delivered to everyone on the bus. Luckily we had packed a lunch.
The paperwork at the border was simple and seamless. We counted 8 separate security gates between the borders. It was dry and dusty – trash everywhere. It looked like the Middle East.
After passing through the gates there were two random stops. Armed buff men dressed in high fashion jeans, skin tight t-shirts and large gold jewelry looked in the cargo holds. A shake down or just typical? The driver and other passengers weren’t phased so apparently neither were we.
The bus ride ended in Petionville just a 15 minute ride from our final destination of Port-au-Prince. We had assumed we’d catch a cab.
HA! No cabs – what would make us think that there would be cabs??? Thank goodness the man who checked the luggage tags upon arrival (wore no uniform – we assumed he had some authority since he was checking the baggage and talked to the driver) asked us if we needed a ride. Sure! We followed him to his car and waited as he cleared all the trash from his seats by tossing it on the ground.
The Marriott. The only nice hotel in the area (one of three buildings taller than a couple stories in the whole city). It was gated and protected by 4 armed guards – our own little prison since we had been told to not leave the property unless we wanted to be be mugged or worse.
Extreme poverty makes ordinary people do extreme things to survive.
We hired a driver to show us the highlights. Thoughtful, caring and protective. He too, tossed his garage out the window. Hence, a city full of garbage.
The Iron Market – gated with armed guards – a place where tourists can shop quasi safely next to the true market where 100’s of stands selling everything from pots and pans to socks displayed their wares. Shoppers we’re not but it was one of three things to do in Port-au-Prince. We were told to follow the man in charge, closely – do not deviate, go slow and don’t do anything that may excite people.
Next was the museum – again gated and armed. A garden oasis in the middle of a concrete city.
Lastly, to the top of the mountain in Petionville where the rich people lived behind tall walls with concertina wire to a restaurant full of white people for the best view in the city.
The hillsides are blanketed in homes built on top of one another. Floored by the homes – something which we had not seen before – I asked the driver to stop so I could get out and take photos. With a resoundingly “NO” (since we were in his care) I was given permission to photograph with the window down as the car slowed a bit.
The roads are chaos – narrow, no street signs with people and cars everywhere. Constant motion outside the car where, often, the car is motionless and unable to move due to the congestion.
On the way to the airport we asked the driver to take us to see the Cathedral that had all but collapsed in the earthquake. It was to be another drive by. This time with my window up.
We stopped to make a left turn and I looked down and literally right outside my window was a dead man lying on his back in a pool of blood. His motorcycle had been picked up but he and a pile of clothes laid untouched. No cover and nothing cordoned off. Hundreds of people sat idly on the nearby steps and a cop was quasi directing traffic but other than that life just went on as if this was an everyday occurrence.
After sitting in the same spot for a few minutes it was determined we had to go right to eventually go left. 10 minutes later we doubled back by the accident and nothing had changed. No cover, no cordoning, no ambulance – nothing.
I don’t know if the misery of the Haitian people has always been present. But they are not recovering from the 2010 earthquake that killed 230,000 people and rendered 3 million homeless. It seems to be lawless and un-governed where sickness, hunger and hopelessness dominate.
It was a haunting and heart breathing short 3 day trip in Port-au-Prince. In 90+ countries we have not experienced a place from the inside of a car. What to do? How can a country so poor evolve?
Cardiff, the capital of Wales, once the busiest port in the world and the financial capital for the coal mining industry. Today it is a trendy and hip tourist destination – home to the breathtaking Cardiff Castle.