Tag Archives: Walking

Rwanda part two – Gorilla time

***Warning – this posting contains a ridiculous amount of gorilla photos (click to enlarge) and videos (click the blue words).

We slept like babies after crawling into our toasty bed – water bottles snuck in by the staff while we ate dinner were a welcome treat.

Up at 5:30 am and breakfast by a warm fireplace. We’re ready!

I forgot to tell you that before we checked into the hotel we went to the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund to learn about Dian and the gorillas.

Did you know that we share over 98% of our DNA with gorillas? Every evening the gorillas make a new a new nest – they never have to change the sheets! Pregnancy lasts for 8.5 months. They’re vegetarians and eat up to 55 pounds of food per day. They laugh when they play and boy oh boy do they play!

The first phase in seeing the gorillas was an orientation at the park headquarters. Trackers keep an eye on the gorilla’s location and report back to the rangers. They then form groups of eight depending on your age, health and physical fitness and assign you a group. The trek can last from two to seven hours depending on what group you’re placed in. There are three levels. We’re able to “request” one of the three. I will reword their levels. Level one – old and not in great shape. Two – great shape. Level three – crazy and uber fit animal!

Guess what group we hiked with?

Our group contained three Brits, two Canadians and an American. We headed out with our drivers to the next meeting point.

The morning was gorgeous however, we were told to not rely on that. We had our rain gear as well as gloves to keep the stinging nettles off our hands.

Our group met up at the Volcano’s National Park 20 minutes away. At this point you can hire a porter who will walk with you, carry your gear and assist you getting up and down the mountain. It is recommended that you hire one to help the local economy. Their pay $10.00 or whatever amount you want to pay above that.

And away we went….

Slow and steady went the old person’s group. Did I mention how beautiful Rwanda is? We walked through lush farmland and climbed the steep mountain about two hours before we met up with the Kwisanga family of gorillas.

Since our DNA is so close we had to put a facemask on before we got close to where they were. The rangers don’t want us making them sick.

I was a little nervous about the gorillas after seeing videos where they would run by a person and knock them over. Any fear that I harbored melted away immediately . Kinda like I don’t hear the Jaw’s theme music when I scuba dive even though I’m afraid of a shark attack.

The gorillas could have cared less that we were there. Some were lounging and others played like little kids. There was one silverback (male) and the rest were females. One mama held her one week old baby and the four month old gorilla played like a five year old rolling around with the teenagers. They really do smile and I would say laugh as well. It’s so endearing.

The hordes of flies circle them like rotting fruit abandoned in the sun. The flies left us alone. We were allowed one hour with the gorillas. At one point the silverback woke up from his nap and wondered off. We followed him for a bit and got to watch him sit and eat before we returned back to the family at large.

It was incredible!!!

The sky began to weep minutes before we had to leave. The timing was perfect. It made a tough, super slippery and thrilling decent back down the mountain. Our shoes were completely full of mud. The rain ended just before we finished.

We returned to Kigali for one more night before heading out again.

Did I mention how beautiful Rwanda is?

Had to show you Bill’s shoes made brand new by housekeeping at our hotel.

Crazy how airport security differs. Upon arrival at the Kigali Airport – Bill and I had to vacate the car while it was completely searched and go into a building and be body scanned before entering the airport property.

Pamplona, Spain

The five kilometer walled “old city” of Pamplona (Spanish) and/or Iruña (Basque) is well preserved. Founded in 74 BC by Roman military and political leader, Pompey. Due to its strategic location it was fortified right way.

* Click to enlarge photos

The Camino de Santiago Frances meanders through town. It was on our third day of the Camino that took us through town 10 years ago. Through being the key word. No time to explore – we had miles ahead of us.

Bill partied here one night 50 years ago and was determined to find the bar so we booked a week’s stay at an Airbnb to allow us the time to investigate. He didn’t remember the name or the location so we drank or way through town trying to figure out which one held Bill’s barstool.

Our apartment was on Estafeta Street right above a popular restaurant/bar. The street is renowned for its 300 meter path where six bulls and thousands of crazy masochists converge for the running of the bulls during the San Fermín festival.

In 11 days, our balcony and all the ones up and down the street, now quiet and unoccupied, will be full of onlookers peering down to the mayhem below. More than 1.5 million people will fill the town.

Preparations are under way. Stores advertise white and red in honor of the celebration – some empty store fronts are shored up with painted murals and fencing has been installed to keep people out of areas. It’s hard to fathom the masses for the festival.

We spent three days on portions of the Camino. The first day we followed the arrows to Cizur Menór and it only took 20 minutes to get lost. I had to pull out the GPS to get oriented. The next time we hiked in the opposite direction. It was like Where’s Waldo trying to find the trail makers. We taxied to Alto del Perdón and walked back – backwards on the trail again! Yes, we got lost but not for long.

Searching for arrows that guide the Way and not knowing where they lead was thrilling. We talked about a reunion walk in the future. We’ll see how that pans out. One thing we learned is that we’re not as strong as we used to be. Super light packs and a few extra days to walk would be essential.

Pamplona pays homage to Ernest Hemingway. A city that he loved and wrote about in his 1926 book The Sun Also Rises. Some of his favorite haunts still stand today attracting tourists and local alike.

San Fermín

We gobbled up as many pinchos as possible and tried to soak in every ounce of Spain as possible.

Hemingway’s book is downloaded on my Kindle to read as we head west – going to let Pamplona linger a bit longer…

Next stop Lamu Island, Kenya

We drove out of Tsavo East and headed to the town of Malindi on the Indian Ocean where everyone but us got a Covid test for their return flights home. Afterwards we hopped on a plane and 25 minutes later landed at the Manda Airport on the Island of Manda.There is something magical and primitive about landing at a tiny remote airport. It’s informal – no jetways or sidewalks just earthen paths. Everything is dulled by a layer of red dirt. Our luggage was loaded into a old wooden pull cart and rolled to the nearby boat ramp.

We boarded a boat taxi and headed across the channel to Lamu Island. A UNESCO World Heritage site and Kenya’s oldest and best preserved Swahili settlement on Africa’s East Coast.Our reward for finishing the walk was to stay at the renowned family run Peponi Hotel in the adjoining community of Shella.

Lamu and the Peponi are listed in the book 1,000 Places to See Before You Die and rightfully so.

Carol and her daughter Elke run the hotel. I’m sure they don’t like the reference but I had visions of Mama Mia. Elke is stunningly beautiful, make up free and bare footed. Her mum is clearly a spitting image of the same girl just years later. They are hands on and make sure your every need it met.

Previously warned by Tropical Ice that we should extend our (included in the safari) one night stay and enjoy the pole pole (Swahili for slow, slow) lifestyle. We had booked two nights. A perfect end to a perfect walking safari.

Our original plan grew into five nights. Covid was starting to affect our trip. The flight to Zanzibar had been cancelled and the Islands of Comoros and Madagascar closed their borders to tourism. Coupled by civil unrest in others countries – we needed time to hatch a new plan.

First things first. We girls headed out just behind the hotel to explore the narrow streets and pathways that wind through the village of Shella. There are no cars and donkeys are used to transport goods and people. We set out with a map highlighting the “best of” and no sooner than we made the first turn and we were lost.

What a place to be lost. It was a maze with a muted palette of dusty paths and creamy buildings with stunning carved door, offset by bright bougainvillea, drying laundry and women in colorful hijabs and dresses.

It’s a certainty that every country has its one percent. This was evident at the Hemmingways and Peponi. Lots of lethargic people wearing $1,000. sunglasses and designer clothing. Safari clothes – not appropriate.

Shela and Lamu Island are Muslim communities. 50 mosques for 50,000 people. My shorts and skirts from the safari wouldn’t suffice so I was on a mission to purchase a modest dress. Shoulders and knees need to be covered. It was a request but not enforced. Light and airy dresses were what most woman wear. Scarves worn for coverage work as well. There was one boutique shop in town where all of us found a treasure. One dress worn over and over will suffice.

A lot of the homes and fenced walls are built with coral. They’re rough, porous and plentiful. 350 members of the Luo tribe live on a nearby island and spend their days harvesting the dead coral from under trees and transporting them by boat to Lamu Island. Beamed ceilings are made with Mangrove poles and therefore rooms are narrow since the trees do not grow tall. Floors and walls are mostly rough dead coral and the coated with coral limestone for smoothness. Many homes have a “daka” entry porch where men gather to visit. Inside are are small niches carved into the walls of stone structure. Inside elaborate “vidaka” walls – small niches carved into the walls of stone structures – are a stunning focal point. Decorative but also used to reduce echoing in the home.

Iain’s wife, Lou, flew in to join everyone. Our first evening, the last that we were all together, we had a Swahili feast. The setting was stunning. We sat in a lush area near the pool on ground height couches surrounded by vibrant fluffy pillows. The men were not quite sure what to do with their legs which prompted us to become silly children once again. The food was spicy, flavorful and bountiful.

After a luxurious night’s sleep six of us took a dhow (ancient Arab sailing boat) to the old town of Lamu. It’s within walking distance to Shella Village at low tide but the dhow was a more traditional means of entering this famous town. The bustling streets where “pole pole” meets the fast pace of commerce, donkeys are the beast of burden and hawkers try to lure you into their shops.

Lamu is bursting at the seams with cats, cats and more cats. Unique cats. The only place in the world to have the same physiques as the cats depicted in Egyptian hieroglyphics.

The evening commenced with a sunset dhow cruise sipping wine and drifting by patches of mangroves. When the sun began to set we turned course and met up with masses of dhow boats where we all raced towards the sunset. It was stunning.

I’ll have you know it took me three days to shake having to look for predators while traversing the garden lawn from our room to the restaurant!

We said goodbye to everyone on day three and it once again became the Bill and Paige show. Time was spent exploring Shela and Lamu Town, walking the beach, lounging, catching up on emails, posting a few blogs, making plans, eating too much food and having sunset cocktails.

Sand life and art:

Animal List for Tsavo West and East

I forgot to include a list of animals we saw on our walk. Thank goodness Henry wrote them down.

If you happen to go on this walking safari be sure to ask Iain, “What time is dinner?”

The Great Walk of Africa Day 9

What you don’t know won’t kill ya. Apparently that’s not the way in the bush.

This morning I felt like Emily Blunt in the The Quiet Place movie. The predators are out there…. There’s no Jaws movie music Da dant da dant da dant. Not only have we taken the oath of silence so have the predators. It’s a quiet killing grounds in Tsavo. The only things making noise are the harmless birds. HA!!! The stuff I think about…..

Lots of game sightings today – zebras – elephants – gazelles…

Click to enlarge photos…

It was a peaceful day with no heart pumping events.

Until we were about to cross the Galana River back to camp. Toiko and Washii started into the water when a crocodile’s tail took a swing at their ankles. Both jumped back to the shore quicker than a Kenyan runner. Toiko minus a sandal. He returned to camp shoeless. Poor guy. It will be a long time before the guys stop teasing him about this one.

The surface beneath our feet is a bit of a conundrum – harsh, dry, and barren like the surface of the moon and closer to the shore there’s beautiful fine white sand. There are a few springs of greenery sprouting. Otherwise, food seems either non-existent or inedible. How any animal forages and lives in this area is baffling

Look who tried to wander into camp. Yes. That’s Bill at our tent.

Hello Bill – do you see the elephant?

On our evening game drive we drove up to a male and female pair lounging in the sun. Jokes about the manly lion ensued… To prove his virility the male jumped on the female. Big her in the shoulder and did his thing. Who’s king of the jungle now?

Tomorrow is our last day of walking and it will be a full day. We leave at our usual 7 am departure time and will not be returning until 6 pm…..

Mzima Camp

Good Lord. Oh dark thirty. We had just fallen asleep.

Breakfast at 5:15 am so that we could be ready for our 5:45 start to Tsavo.

Our flight didn’t leave until 7:30 and the airport was only 15 minutes away. Leaving before gridlock would leave down time but ensure we made the flight.We boarded a 12 seater prop plane. Some of the guys had to crawl to their seats. It was a quick one hour flight to Tsavo West. The welcoming crew was two grazing giraffes just on the side of the dirt runway. The real deal. Not a zoo. Just two giraffes hanging out.

We hopped into a modified Land Rover Defender. Bill and Stephen sat behind the driver. Kim and I loaded up in the next row with Washii, our spotter, sitting on the back roof. Within no time we were standing on the seats with our heads and shoulders peaking out of the roof spotting game.

The rest of the crew loaded up in second Rover and we headed to breakfast at the Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge 45 minutes away.

Cape buffalo, warthogs and zebras (the Brits say zeb-bra) grazed while we stuffed our bellies.

Two more hours to the first camp – our jaws wide open as more wildlife started to appear.

Click on photos to enlarge.

According to Iain we were very lucky to see a leopard lying next to the road. A rare occurrence since they are nocturnal. Looks like he got in a scruff only hours before.

Meet our fearless leader Iain. Iain started Tropical Ice and the Great Walk of Africa 43 years ago. Born in Scotland and raised in Kenya since the age of six. A lover of the outdoors, modern day Indiana Jones, avid reader, movie buff, John Wayne impersonator, comedian and head man in charge. This will be his 93rd walk.

Yes, we fools paid lots of money to walk 100 miles across Tsavo West and Tsavo East. We’re the chum to the predator’s delight. No pussies allowed.

The safari of my dreams has been altered.

Yes, we have tents, twin beds and even woven rugs. It’s a throw back to safari’s from the golden years. Everything we need and then some. Bathtub and chandeliers are foolish childhood dreams. This is a big girl’s camp. It’s like drinking black coffee.

There is a mess tent where we are served three outrageous meals a day with tea and crumpets each afternoon. It’s perfect. The only downside is we are in Tsavo which means “Place of Slaughter”. Predator’s stomping grounds…. Going to the bathroom in the middle of the night is scary!!!

This camp is named Mzima (alive in Swahili). That’s because it’s the start of the journey and at this point we’re all still alive.

Time to relax and settle in. The walk starts tomorrow.

Panama City, Panama

Believe it or not immigration in Panama did not ask about our flight out of Panama. Go figure.

The airline clerks in Lima were more about Panamanian Immigration than the Panamanians were.

It’s all smoke and mirrors!

The good thing about the whole ordeal was that we didn’t have to spend the night in the Panama Immigration Hotel.

The first day was the hop on hop off bus and Yup…. it was a national holiday – diá de bandera (flag day) and half of the bus stops were closed. One being access to the historic district – Casco Viejo and all the museums. Flag day in Panama is a big deal. We caught a glimpse from the bus and hundreds of thousands of people were out packed in like sardines celebrating. It was great fun to see.Lucky for us we got to watch a huge ship go through the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal. I was able to experience locks growing up on Saranac Lake in New York. It’s a tedious and meticulously planned operation. Train-like engines guide the ships through the canal keeping the boat in the middle. It was a bit like watching water boil but thrilling none the less.

A malecón (seaside walkway) called Cinta Costera Park links the wildly growing modern urban center to Casco Viejo – Panama City’s spectacular old town and UNESCO World Heritage site.

We baked ourselves in the sun walking from our hotel to the historic center on the Cinta Costera but enjoyed the seaside breeze in the evening on the way back. Skaters, walkers, joggers, dancers, vendors, kids and their parents, novias and amigos relished in the cooler night temperature.

Casco Viejo is a mixture of crumbling abandoned buildings and new or newly refurbished ones – stately, ornate and adorned with Spanish inspired balconies. Fantastic restaurants, super cool hotels and fun bars.

Oh yeah – the moon righted its self. Explain that to me please!

We happened upon a runner, Jan-Casper Look, who just completed running from Vancouver, Canada to Panama City. Phase one of his journey. It took him a year. He runs pulling a cart behind himself averaging 30 miles per day. You can follow him on Instagram @jclloo21 where there’s also a link to his blog. And we thought walking a few Caminos was a big deal.

Strange and crazy. This Camino Pilgrimage symbol was on a building in Casco Viejo!

The Day After Finishing the Via Francigena

Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened. ~ Dr. Seuss

Today we went the office of the “Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi” in St. Peter’s Square for our Testimoniums (certificate for completing at least the last 100km of the Via). The pilgrims who started Canterbury get the same document.It’s just like the Camino de Santiago. Walking the last 100km (62 miles) gets you a Compostela.Chappy, Bill and I weighed ourselves. Bill was the winner at losing the most.Bill and I hoofed it to our new luxurious hotel where we will veg for the next three nights. Soft sheets, a bathtub and a huge TV with English channels. Not sure if we’ll get out of bed tomorrow. Chappy, Darrell and Roxanne stopped by to check out our new digs and we all walked to see the Trevi Fountain (along with 1,000,000 other people) to hug it out and say goodbye.Chappy is heading home tomorrow and Darrell and Roxanne are off to discover Italy by train.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Completing our pilgrimage to Rome and receiving our Via Francigena Testamonium today means farewell to the Fab Five and hello to the positive memories we’ll share with each other back home in Nevada. Thanks Paige for sharing your blog with our loved ones!

Luxury is clean cloths!

Well done Pilgrims!

Day 39 the Final Day on the Via Francigena

La Storta to Rome – Sunday October 14th (Preston’s birthday – love you honey) – 13.3 miles in 7 hours 14 minutes.

The Fab Five made to Rome all in one piece and blister free.

What an experience! We’re so appreciative of our health, the ability to perform such a task and friendship.

Our walk today was…. well… you decide…. (photos are in order).Obstacles to climb over…95% was on pavement.We’re staying at the Vatican Garden Inn. Don’t stay here!

Roxanne’s post and photos:

The Fab Five have landed!
St. Peter’s Square, Rome.

Day 38 on the Via Francigena

Campagnano to La Storta – Saturday October 13th – 14.4 miles in 6 hours 45 minutes – climbing 1443 feet.

You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You’re on your own (and with friends). And you know what you know. And you are the one who decided where to go (Rome). Dr. Seuss

It feels so good knowing that the Fab Five will be walking into Rome tomorrow. We’re smelling the barn. I think we’d gallop if we had the energy!

Hotel Cassia is where we will rest our heads tonight. Twin beds in a private room. Clean.

It isn’t the mountain ahead that wears you out; it’s the grain of sand in your shoe. Robert W. Service

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Ladies and gentlemen, The Fab Five are now on final approach into Rome. Walked from Campagnano di Roma to La Storta. This last stage before Rome took us through pastureland, shady woodlands, 6th century BC Etruscan burial sites, a waterfall and an ancient water mill. Gluten free eating is easy in Italy!
There’s an APP called AIC (Italian Celiac Association) that shows where Gluten free meals and products are sold and those options are everywhere in Italy even in tiny villages.

Day 37 on the Via Francigena

Sutri to Campagnano – Friday October 12th – 13.1 miles in 6:10 climbing 897 feet. Shorter is not always better. To save 3.5 miles we walked along loud busy roads. My umbrella warded off evil cars until we safely made it to a quite path that lead us into town.We’re staying at Hotel Ristorante Benigni.

Two more days until Rome.

Seven more days until we meet the new love in our lives – Graciella Faye.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Leaving our Sutri apartment.Roman Amphitheater from
1st-2nd century BC. Which way?After walking to Campagnano di Roma, we sat down to a fine late lunch and reunited with our fellow pilgrim from Denmark.

Day 36 on the Via Francigena

Vertalla to Sutri – Thursday October 11th – 16.8 miles in 8:40 and we climbed 1375 feetHard to believe that a day that starts with a rainbow turns out to be nuts literally and figuratively.If we weren’t walking through a slippery, muddy rain forest with lots of obstacles we were walking thru miles of nut trees.Bill twisted a muscle in his back so we hired Bags-Free to transport his pack from hotel to hotel. Chappy quickly decided that was a great idea and signed up too. I have to admit I loaded Bill’s pack with my clothes so that I could carry a lighter load.There were spills and thrills today – not all for the faint of heart.

Darrell – Don’t drink the water here or you’ll get Giardino.

We’re staying at B&B Caseta di Vicolo Corto. The beds are so comfy and the place is beautiful. We actually have our own apartment and it’s new, clean and fabulous.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Walked from Viterbo to Sutri.Snack at the base of a Roman tomb near Capranica.

Day 35 on the Via Francigena

Viterbo to Vertalla – Wednesday October 10th – 11.2 miles in 6 hours only climbing 874 feet.Fun day walking through an Etruscan Via Cava which I’ll translate as a road with tall lava walls.Followed by lush farm land – a Clydesdale horse and super friendly donkey – nut trees and olive production.

We’re staying at Alberto da Benedetta. We’re happy to announce that we’ve ditched Ostellos (hostels). We’ve opted for more restful sleep.

Four more days to Rome!

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Humane Italy ♥️Walked from Viterbo to Vetralla.Gear off.Fellow German flip flop pilgrim.BreakfastOlive harvest comb.Picnic lunch.

Day 34 on the Via Francigena

Montefiascone to Viterbo – Tuesday October 9th – 12 miles in 6 hoursWe said goodbye to Lake Bolsena. The largest volcanic lake in Europe and considered to be the belly button of Italy.Bill and I had an off day. Our packs didn’t set well. We walked down from Montefiascone and then became weary with the level shadeless terrain. Just one of those days…Highlight! Roman road dating back to 150 BC.Tonight we are staying at the Palazzo Riario. The gentleman that checked us in ran over to meet us at the hotel in his chef’s clothing. Often times hotels are not manned 24 hours a day. After checking in we promptly dumped our packs and followed him to his restaurant. It was fantastic!Baby alert hence grandparent alert! Congratulations to Troy and Yessmy. Late last night Graciella Faye was born. She is absolutely beautiful and we can’t wait to meet her. Yay! Bursting with love.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

“Coregone” fish caught out of Lake Bolsena.
The Fab Five walked out of Montefiascone and walked to Viterbo the center of Italy’s military aviation. Roman RoadMorning SnackBelt Modification Lunch breakBaby Announcement Grocery store bulk wine

Day 33 on the Via Francigena

Bolsena to Montefiascone – Monday October 8th – 12 miles in 6:09 hours – climbing 2079 feet

Lago Bolsena the largest volcanic lake in Europe and the belly button of Italy.

Another beautiful day. Today – my easiest. However, we all swatted swarms of bugs throughout the walk. We’re not sure if there was a hatching after the rain or what….

We are within 100 kilometers of Rome – which is a big deal. Within a hour and a half period we saw 3 different signs that said we were within 100 kilometers to Rome. What’s up with that???

Here’s what we saw between signs…

We’re staying at the Hotel Urbano V. Super place! Bar, terrace and sunny places to dry our clothes.Roxanne’s post and photos:

South end of Lake BolsenaOur Pilgrim passports daily stamp

Made in Italy

Day 32 on the Via Francigena

Acquapendente to Bolsena – Sunday October 7th – 14.2 miles in a little over 7 hours climbing 1161 feet.

Pixie dust rained down on us today.

We had packed away our gear before bed last night only to be awaken by pouring rain.Rainbows follow rain…The clouds, mist and a dampened horizon were our first dose of pixie. Freshness.Look below at the tiny people on the horizon.

Roxanne discovered pixie – potato fields. The next pixie was in the most enchanting forest covered with ivy and these tiny purple Shooting Star flowers. It was magical – as if Tinkerbell herself rolled out this delightful carpet.

Beyond the forest our next sprinkle of pixie was white butterflies which delicately danced and frolicked.

Porcipine quill.

Followed by Lago Bolsena – silvery and calm with reflections of white puffy clouds.

Tonight we were staying at the Hotel Zodiaco. Super clean with balconies perfect for drying our clothes.

All this pixie followed by cheeseburgers and gelato.

Nights always end with wine.“All you need is a little faith, trust, and pixie dust.”–Peter Pan

Roxanne’s post and photos:

“There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” -Sir Ranulph Fiennes.The Fab Five’s excellent gear-on gear-off techniques. Field is French fries Lake BolsenaWalked from Acquapendente to Bolsena and Bill leads the way.

Day 31 on the Via Francigena

Radicofani to Acquapendente – 11 miles in 6.5 hours. The last 5k we hitched a ride. The road was wet and super dangerous so we begged a woman who spoke a bit of English to help us out. She called a friend who reluctantly and kindly drove us and saved our lives.

There is nothing like walking to get the feel of a country. A fine landscape is like a piece of music; it must be taken at the right tempo. Even a bicycle goes too fast. ~Paul Scott Mowrer

We woke up to rain. The gentle kind without wind. It was one of my favorite mornings. The views were breathtaking – fall colors and misty rolling hills. It was like a religious experience. Photos can not do it justice.

We’re staying at Eco Albergo Monte Rufeno and the heat is on… Heat is good after a long rainy day. Just like that – two weeks ago it was hot!

Roxanne’s post and photos:

The Fab Five walked through rich color and rain from Radicofani to Acquapendente.

Day 30 on the Via Francigena

Le Briccole to Radicofani – 9.20 miles in 4.75 hours and climbed 1920 feet.

“Her pleasure in the walk must arise from the exercise and the day, from the view of the last smiles of the year upon the tawny leaves and withered hedges, and from repeating to herself some few of the thousand poetical descriptions extant of autumn — that season of peculiar and inexhaustible influence on the mind of taste and tenderness — that season which has drawn from every poet worthy of being read some attempt at description, or some lines of feeling.” — Jane Austen

Chappy stretching his calves.This is our last day in Tuscany. However, the terrain changed so dramatically we wouldn’t know – gone are the vineyards and olive trees.It definitely feels like fall. The colors are captivating. Mother Nature decided to cloud up and rain. She didn’t listen to the weather forecasters – a woman after my own heart.Our Via books told us it would be a relentlessly uphill climb today. We got all cocky when the trail had some ups but not too bad. Then all of a sudden, somewhat like Mother Nature, the relentless climb began.

Yes, (for those who have noticed) sometimes Bill wears his Sketchers if rock-hopping or rainy weather look they would pull out the thong out of his flip-flop. Today was one of those days. Not sure what kind of devise you use to look at the photos but in many you will see a tower at the top of a hill far, far away (on a cell phone you’d have to zoom in). Well, it happens that often we climb to or from that spectacular thing in the distance. Hence, the climbing.We’re staying at Albergo La Torre. It’s so cold in our room that we’re bundled up in bed and it’s only 3 pm.

When staying in an Albergo at our price point the heat is controlled by the front desk. Bill tried to convey that he was cold hoping the host would turn on the heat. Instead he was told that there are extra blankets in the armoire.

** I need some feedback please. I greatly reduced the size of the photos to help with uploading (internet service is marginal). Has the quality of the photos diminished??

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Leaped, walked and enjoyed the seasonal color from Le Briccole to Radicofani.

Days 27, 28 & 29 on the Via Francigena

I’ve decided to combine three days.

It’s going to be a long one so put on a pot of coffee or grab a bottle of wine.

Persevere… some parts might seem repetitious but remember it’s slow going – we average around two miles an hour. We go down to go up. We go east and north to get south. The best part is that it’s Tuscany and it’s magnificent in every way.

First the stats:

Day 27 – Siena to Ponte d’Arbia – Tuesday October 2nd – 17 miles in 7.48 hours climbing 992 feet in elevation (remember we can’t calculate the descent).

Day 28 – Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia – Wednesday October 3rd – 17 miles in 7.38 hours climbing 2,231 feet.

Day 29 – San Quirico d’Orcia to Le Briccole – Thursday October 4th – 11.5 miles in 5.24 hours and climbing 1451 feet.

I mention the climbing because it’s so darn hard!

When we arrived in Ponte d’Arbia Tuesday afternoon there was only a twenty bed Ostello with one bathroom/shower available. Nope, not this time! Having decided earlier in the day that if the place in Ponte d’Arbia was not acceptable we’d find book a place about a half hour away for three nights and taxi to and from our starting and ending points. Done! We’re staying at a 1200 year old agriturismo called Casa Antica. We all have our own apartments in the same building and are living in the lap of luxury.

The taxi rides aren’t cheap but they’re so worth it.

Three of us lightened our loads and two left their packs in the room.

Siena to Ponte d’Arbia – windy and perfectly cool ~

I see trees of green, red roses too. I see them bloom for me and you and I think to myself what a wonderful world.

I see skies of blue and clouds of white – bright blessed day, the dark sacred night and I think to myself what a wonderful world. ~ Louis Armstrong

Some burro time – miss our Baja burros.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Walked from Siena to
Ponte d’ Arbia then taxied to a 1,200 year old home called
Casa Antica.

Paige again:

Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia ~

Ain’t no mountain high enough
Ain’t no valley low enough
Ain’t no river wide enough
To keep me from getting to you babe

Don’tcha know that there
Ain’t no mountain high enough
Ain’t no valley low enough
Ain’t no river wide enough
Ain’t mountain high enough
Ain’t no valley low enough ~ Marvin Gaye and Tammi Terrell

This little girl came running up to us and about tripped me trying to get some loving. I wanted to take her home.

Here’s Roxanne:

A good day, all day!

After walking from Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia, we returned to the 1,200 year old home called Casa Antica and Paige built us dinner.

Me again.

San Quirico d’Orcia to Le Briccole

Such a feelin’s comin’ over me there is wonder in ‘most ev’ry thing I see. Not a cloud in the sky, got the sun in my eyes and I won’t be surprised if it’s a dream.

I’m on the top of the world lookin’ down on creation ~ Karen Carpenter

Here’s Roxanne:

After walking from San Quirico to Le Briccole, we returned to Casa Antica and to another fine meal built by Paige.

Day 26 on the Via Francigena

Heigh-ho, heigh-ho. It’s off to walk we go. Heigh-ho, heigh-ho, heigh-ho…

Monteriggioni to Siena – October 1st – 13.1 miles in 7.5 hours and we climbed 1525’ (not sure about the descent).I was a bit apprehensive waking up to the rain however we had prepared for it by buying great rain gear. So – off we went.As I reached for my water bottle I remembered my sun umbrella which now became my rain umbrella. It also serves a a great tool for warning approaching traffic on blind turns – HA. Three uses in one. Not bad for 3 euros.Walking through the woods felt like autumn.A clay trail, that lined the edge of a large green field, was like glue – each step added layers of mud to the bottom of our feet. Step by step we soon had five pounds of mud to carry with us.We came upon Marcello who had a rest stop outside his home offering food and drinks for a donation. It was such a wonderful treat!The rain dissipated – the boys stripped and we carried on towards Siena.We’re staying at the Albergo Bernini. Super clean and comfy. It has a wonderful host and two terraces with the most spectacular views!Lovely Siena.