Tag Archives: animals

A longer detour to Botswana

Oh my goodness.  Four countries that touch each other – who would have known! HA!

Ok – I knew about Zambia but I didn’t know Botswana was right there and then while in Botswana we learned that Namibia was right across the river.  We were in Namibia in December and noticed this long flag pole portion of Namibia going east from the desert portion that we visited.  It turns out to be Zambia’s attachment to the Zambezi River.

When we learned Botswana was only an hour away Bill and I giggled like we captured a leprechaun.

I did research online and used safaribookings.com to find an operator who would take us on a safari to Chobe National Park the following day.  This time a last minute plan worked out!

Warning: there are way too many elephant photos.  *click to enlarge and click on blue words to see videos.

We had a 7:00 am pickup by Brian, the owner/operator of the tour company who drove us an hour to the border between Zimbabwe and Botswana.   There he left us in the good hands of Cobra aka King our safari guide – funny and fearless.

It was a heart pumping morning as we had two different elephants charge our vehicle.  One towards the hood who wanted to play chicken on the road and the other who came running, down an incline, off the side of the road, closest to me, like he was going to t-bone us.

This one headed for us

The encounter on the road stopped when Cobra turned on the engine.  The sound was enough to frighten the elephant and stop the charge.  We were told they have terrible eye sight and really couldn’t see what he was heading towards – he just sensed the threat.

The next elephant, by the grace of God, swerved before hitting us.

In between these incidents word got out in the radio that there were lions in the bush.  Mr. Fearless driver decided he should be to one to find them.  Sure enough a pride of lions lay in the shade under the drooping branches of a wide tree deep in the bush. Sleepy, they showed no interest in us beside the one who got up and walked away (to where?).  I’m snapping photos and Bill tells me to be careful and look for the lion that walked away – concerned that he could circle around us.  I teased Cobra that he was safe in the cab and then asked Bill what was I to do if the lion decided he wanted to eat us???

The drivers are constantly on the radio informing each other when they find game.  As other vehicles approached Cobra had to back and forth it in the bush to turn us around to leave.  Kudos to Cobra.  He had bragging rights this day.

We lunched at the Mawana Lodge on the edge of the Chobe River and then headed for an afternoon boat ride. Maguna, our captain.

Cruising in the river was marvelous.  Botswana rested on one side and Namibia on the other.  In the middle was a narrow island that has been the cause of friction between the two countries for years.  Both sides claim ownership, each calling it by different names.

Hundreds of elephants and African cape buffalo grazed on the island and Namibia side.  The river was narrow enough that we got to go where the action was.  It was peaceful and thrilling.

We witnessed a herd of elephants with their young traversing the river.  It was remarkable how they stayed together and kept the babies afloat.

We also saw giraffe, a monitor lizard swimming, and very big crocodiles on our afternoon cruise.

Immigration was super easy and Brian waited for us so he could drop us back off at the lodge in time for Sundowners.  What a day!

Animal List for Tsavo West and East

I forgot to include a list of animals we saw on our walk. Thank goodness Henry wrote them down.

If you happen to go on this walking safari be sure to ask Iain, “What time is dinner?”

First day walking the Great Walk of Africa

Our day starts with Jambo Jambo – the 6:00 am wake up call spoken by the man who fills our bowls with hot water every morning.

Hot coffee, tea and breakfast are waiting in the mess camp.Departure time is 7:00 am.

While we walk our campsite is completely broken down and set-up at a new location. Our laundry is washed as well.

Walking rules: Single file with no large gaps between us and don’t make a sound. The person who is at the front of the line is to rotate to the back every half hour or so. Don’t be kind to the people behind you by holding a branch to allow others to pass. Just move through it.

* click on photos to enlarge

Guarding us is Iain and five skilled Samburu bush men (wearing sandals made of tires), with weapons, as follows:

Iain – Rigby Ruger 416
Washii (he and Lajori switch places every other day) – spear and machete
Tioko – Rigby Ruger 416
We’re in between
Ekutan – Bruno 458
Lajori – spear machete
Lokori – Bruno 458

The red laterite-rich soil is uneven beneath our feet. The ground is stamped with hippos, elephants, lions and giraffes (many more) tracks.  Dung is everywhere.

I know it’s called “the bush” but better terminology might be “the thicket”,  “the brush” or “the bramble”.   It’s thick and unforgiving.After a half hour of moving branches and thick brambles out of my way I channeled Mohammad Ali and started dodging, weaving and ducking to avoid being pierced by long thorns.  It became quite fun and just when I started getting cocky I’d get slapped square in the face by a catapulted branch. Oh, to be humbled…

We had a challenging river gorge portion of the walk. Lots of rocks and sand with a steep drop to the river. A crocodiles refuge. It was challenging and rewarding and none of us fell in.

Iain had warned us about charging hippos and how dangerous they are. Our first big sighting of hippos were ahead in the river. I figured we saw them in the distance and that was good given their danger level. That’s not Iain’s attitude. We needed to see them up close and personal.  As long as we remained silent they wouldn’t know we were there. It was spectacular and scary.  Hippos forage at night. During the day they submerge themselves in the river to avoid the sun which burns their sensitive skin.  Often times you can’t see them in the water and then suddenly they pop up like a bobber after a fish has eaten your bait. Weighing about 3,000 pounds they can run remarkably fast. Certainly faster than humans.

Every hour or so there is a rest stop and potty break.  Out of caution we only go to the bathroom in the direction we came from and only a few feet away.

We stumbled upon a zebra carcass that Iain suspects was killed in the last week.  Notice how they left the legs untouched.

It was an invigorating day and animal sightings were plentiful. The mandatory vow of silence was not only for our safety but good for the soul.  Time passed quickly.

We finished walking around 12:30 pm. Just in time for a fabulous lunch.  Tea time at 4:00, hot showers at 5:30 followed by campfire cocktails and dinner.

Off to bed.  Rinse and repeat.