Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened. ~ Dr. Seuss

Today we went the office of the “Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi” in St. Peter’s Square for our Testimoniums (certificate for completing at least the last 100km of the Via). The pilgrims who started Canterbury get the same document.It’s just like the Camino de Santiago. Walking the last 100km (62 miles) gets you a Compostela.Chappy, Bill and I weighed ourselves. Bill was the winner at losing the most.Bill and I hoofed it to our new luxurious hotel where we will veg for the next three nights. Soft sheets, a bathtub and a huge TV with English channels. Not sure if we’ll get out of bed tomorrow. Chappy, Darrell and Roxanne stopped by to check out our new digs and we all walked to see the Trevi Fountain (along with 1,000,000 other people) to hug it out and say goodbye.Chappy is heading home tomorrow and Darrell and Roxanne are off to discover Italy by train.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Campagnano to La Storta – Saturday October 13th – 14.4 miles in 6 hours 45 minutes – climbing 1443 feet.

You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You’re on your own (and with friends). And you know what you know. And you are the one who decided where to go (Rome). Dr. Seuss

It feels so good knowing that the Fab Five will be walking into Rome tomorrow. We’re smelling the barn. I think we’d gallop if we had the energy!

Hotel Cassia is where we will rest our heads tonight. Twin beds in a private room. Clean.

It isn’t the mountain ahead that wears you out; it’s the grain of sand in your shoe. Robert W. Service

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Ladies and gentlemen, The Fab Five are now on final approach into Rome. Walked from Campagnano di Roma to La Storta. This last stage before Rome took us through pastureland, shady woodlands, 6th century BC Etruscan burial sites, a waterfall and an ancient water mill. Gluten free eating is easy in Italy!
There’s an APP called AIC (Italian Celiac Association) that shows where Gluten free meals and products are sold and those options are everywhere in Italy even in tiny villages.

Sutri to Campagnano – Friday October 12th – 13.1 miles in 6:10 climbing 897 feet. Shorter is not always better. To save 3.5 miles we walked along loud busy roads. My umbrella warded off evil cars until we safely made it to a quite path that lead us into town.We’re staying at  Hotel Ristorante Benigni.

Two more days until Rome.

Seven more days until we meet the new love in our lives – Graciella Faye.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Leaving our Sutri apartment.Roman Amphitheater from 
1st-2nd century BC. Which way?After walking to Campagnano di Roma, we sat down to a fine late lunch and reunited with our fellow pilgrim from Denmark. 

Vertalla to Sutri – Thursday October 11th – 16.8 miles in 8:40 and we climbed 1375 feetHard to believe that a day that starts with a rainbow turns out to be nuts literally and figuratively.If we weren’t walking through a slippery, muddy rain forest with lots of obstacles we were walking thru miles of nut trees.Bill twisted a muscle in his back so we hired Bags-Free to transport his pack from hotel to hotel. Chappy quickly decided that was a great idea and signed up too. I have to admit I loaded Bill’s pack with my clothes so that I could carry a lighter load.There were spills and thrills today – not all for the faint of heart.

Darrell – Don’t drink the water here or you’ll get Giardino.

We’re staying at B&B Caseta di Vicolo Corto. The beds are so comfy and the place is beautiful. We actually have our own apartment and it’s new, clean and fabulous.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Walked from Viterbo to Sutri.Snack at the base of a Roman tomb near Capranica.

Viterbo to Vertalla – Wednesday October 10th – 11.2 miles in 6 hours only climbing 874 feet.Fun day walking through an Etruscan Via Cava which I’ll translate as a road with tall lava walls.Followed by lush farm land – a Clydesdale horse and super friendly donkey – nut trees and olive production.

We’re staying at Alberto da Benedetta. We’re happy to announce that we’ve ditched Ostellos (hostels). We’ve opted for more restful sleep.

Four more days to Rome!

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Humane Italy ♥️Walked from Viterbo to Vetralla.Gear off.Fellow German flip flop pilgrim.BreakfastOlive harvest comb.Picnic lunch.

Montefiascone to Viterbo – Tuesday October 9th – 12 miles in 6 hoursWe said goodbye to Lake Bolsena. The largest volcanic lake in Europe and considered to be the belly button of Italy.Bill and I had an off day. Our packs didn’t set well. We walked down from Montefiascone and then became weary with the level shadeless terrain. Just one of those days…Highlight! Roman road dating back to 150 BC.Tonight we are staying at the Palazzo Riario. The gentleman that checked us in ran over to meet us at the hotel in his chef’s clothing. Often times hotels are not manned 24 hours a day. After checking in we promptly dumped our packs and followed him to his restaurant. It was fantastic!Baby alert hence grandparent alert! Congratulations to Troy and Yessmy. Late last night Graciella Faye was born. She is absolutely beautiful and we can’t wait to meet her. Yay! Bursting with love.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

“Coregone” fish caught out of Lake Bolsena. 
The Fab Five walked out of Montefiascone and walked to Viterbo the center of Italy’s military aviation. Roman RoadMorning SnackBelt Modification Lunch breakBaby Announcement Grocery store bulk wine

Bolsena to Montefiascone – Monday October 8th – 12 miles in 6:09 hours – climbing 2079 feet

Lago Bolsena the largest volcanic lake in Europe and the belly button of Italy.

Another beautiful day. Today – my easiest. However, we all swatted swarms of bugs throughout the walk. We’re not sure if there was a hatching after the rain or what….

We are within 100 kilometers of Rome – which is a big deal. Within a hour and a half period we saw 3 different signs that said we were within 100 kilometers to Rome. What’s up with that???

Here’s what we saw between signs…

We’re staying at the Hotel Urbano V. Super place! Bar, terrace and sunny places to dry our clothes.Roxanne’s post and photos:

South end of Lake BolsenaOur Pilgrim passports daily stamp

Made in Italy

Acquapendente to Bolsena – Sunday October 7th – 14.2 miles in a little over 7 hours climbing 1161 feet.

Pixie dust rained down on us today.

We had packed away our gear before bed last night only to be awaken by pouring rain.Rainbows follow rain…The clouds, mist and a dampened horizon were our first dose of pixie. Freshness.Look below at the tiny people on the horizon.

Roxanne discovered pixie – potato fields. The next pixie was in the most enchanting forest covered with ivy and these tiny purple Shooting Star flowers. It was magical – as if Tinkerbell herself rolled out this delightful carpet.

Beyond the forest our next sprinkle of pixie was white butterflies which delicately danced and frolicked.Porcipine quill.Followed by Lago Bolsena – silvery and calm with reflections of white puffy clouds.Tonight we were staying at the Hotel Zodiaco. Super clean with balconies perfect for drying our clothes.All this pixie followed by cheeseburgers and gelato.

Nights always end with wine.“All you need is a little faith, trust, and pixie dust.”–Peter Pan

Roxanne’s post and photos:

“There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” -Sir Ranulph Fiennes.The Fab Five’s excellent gear-on gear-off techniques. Field is French fries Lake BolsenaWalked from Acquapendente to Bolsena and Bill leads the way.

Radicofani to Acquapendente – 11 miles in 6.5 hours. The last 5k we hitched a ride. The road was wet and super dangerous so we begged a woman who spoke a bit of English to help us out. She called a friend who reluctantly and kindly drove us and saved our lives.

There is nothing like walking to get the feel of a country. A fine landscape is like a piece of music; it must be taken at the right tempo. Even a bicycle goes too fast. ~Paul Scott Mowrer

We woke up to rain. The gentle kind without wind. It was one of my favorite mornings. The views were breathtaking – fall colors and misty rolling hills. It was like a religious experience. Photos can not do it justice.

We’re staying at Eco Albergo Monte Rufeno and the heat is on… Heat is good after a long rainy day. Just like that – two weeks ago it was hot!Roxanne’s post and photos:

The Fab Five walked through rich color and rain from Radicofani to Acquapendente. 

Le Briccole to Radicofani – 9.20 miles in 4.75 hours and climbed 1920 feet.

“Her pleasure in the walk must arise from the exercise and the day, from the view of the last smiles of the year upon the tawny leaves and withered hedges, and from repeating to herself some few of the thousand poetical descriptions extant of autumn — that season of peculiar and inexhaustible influence on the mind of taste and tenderness — that season which has drawn from every poet worthy of being read some attempt at description, or some lines of feeling.” — Jane Austen

Chappy stretching his calves.This is our last day in Tuscany. However, the terrain changed so dramatically we wouldn’t know – gone are the vineyards and olive trees.It definitely feels like fall. The colors are captivating. Mother Nature decided to cloud up and rain. She didn’t listen to the weather forecasters – a woman after my own heart.Our Via books told us it would be a relentlessly uphill climb today. We got all cocky when the trail had some ups but not too bad. Then all of a sudden, somewhat like Mother Nature, the relentless climb began.

Yes, (for those who have noticed) sometimes Bill wears his Sketchers if rock-hopping or rainy weather look they would pull out the thong out of his flip-flop. Today was one of those days. Not sure what kind of devise you use to look at the photos but in many you will see a tower at the top of a hill far, far away (on a cell phone you’d have to zoom in). Well, it happens that often we climb to or from that spectacular thing in the distance. Hence, the climbing.We’re staying at Albergo La Torre. It’s so cold in our room that we’re bundled up in bed and it’s only 3 pm.

When staying in an Albergo at our price point the heat is controlled by the front desk. Bill tried to convey that he was cold hoping the host would turn on the heat. Instead he was told that there are extra blankets in the armoire.

** I need some feedback please. I greatly reduced the size of the photos to help with uploading (internet service is marginal). Has the quality of the photos diminished??

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Leaped, walked and enjoyed the seasonal color from Le Briccole to Radicofani.

I’ve decided to combine three days.

It’s going to be a long one so put on a pot of coffee or grab a bottle of wine.

Persevere… some parts might seem repetitious but remember it’s slow going – we average around two miles an hour. We go down to go up. We go east and north to get south. The best part is that it’s Tuscany and it’s magnificent in every way.

First the stats:

Day 27 – Siena to Ponte d’Arbia – Tuesday October 2nd – 17 miles in 7.48 hours climbing 992 feet in elevation (remember we can’t calculate the descent).

Day 28 – Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia – Wednesday October 3rd – 17 miles in 7.38 hours climbing 2,231 feet.

Day 29 – San Quirico d’Orcia to Le Briccole – Thursday October 4th – 11.5 miles in 5.24 hours and climbing 1451 feet.

I mention the climbing because it’s so darn hard!

When we arrived in Ponte d’Arbia Tuesday afternoon there was only a twenty bed Ostello with one bathroom/shower available. Nope, not this time! Having decided earlier in the day that if the place in Ponte d’Arbia was not acceptable we’d find book a place about a half hour away for three nights and taxi to and from our starting and ending points. Done! We’re staying at a 1200 year old agriturismo called Casa Antica. We all have our own apartments in the same building and are living in the lap of luxury.

The taxi rides aren’t cheap but they’re so worth it.

Three of us lightened our loads and two left their packs in the room.

Siena to Ponte d’Arbia – windy and perfectly cool ~

I see trees of green, red roses too. I see them bloom for me and you and I think to myself what a wonderful world.

Paige again:

Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia ~

A good day, all day!

After walking from Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia, we returned to the 1,200 year old home called Casa Antica and Paige built us dinner. 

Me again.

San Quirico d’Orcia to Le Briccole

After walking from San Quirico to Le Briccole, we returned to Casa Antica and to another fine meal built by Paige. 

Heigh-ho, heigh-ho. It’s off to walk we go. Heigh-ho, heigh-ho, heigh-ho…

Monteriggioni to Siena – October 1st – 13.1 miles in 7.5 hours and we climbed 1525’ (not sure about the descent).I was a bit apprehensive waking up to the rain however we had prepared for it by buying great rain gear. So – off we went.As I reached for my water bottle I remembered my sun umbrella which now became my rain umbrella. It also serves a a great tool for warning approaching traffic on blind turns – HA. Three uses in one. Not bad for 3 euros.Walking through the woods felt like autumn.A clay trail, that lined the edge of a large green field, was like glue – each step added layers of mud to the bottom of our feet. Step by step we soon had five pounds of mud to carry with us.We came upon Marcello who had a rest stop outside his home offering food and drinks for a donation. It was such a wonderful treat!The rain dissipated – the boys stripped and we carried on towards Siena.We’re staying at the Albergo Bernini. Super clean and comfy. It has a wonderful host and two terraces with the most spectacular views!Lovely Siena.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Walked from Monteriggioni to Siena in intermittent rain showers.

Colle di Val d’Elsa to Monteriggioni – September 30th – 9.1 miles in 6 hours climbing 1100 feet.

One of the Fab Five said, “you must go down to go up” – how about if you want to go up you just take an elevator? Yup, in Colle di Val d’Elsa. This medieval hilltop town has an ascensore to take people and weary pilgrims to the top (or bottom) of the hill.We took this fabulous time machine up to the top for dinner and panoramic views.Our B&B was so comfy and fabulous – the kitchen perfect for wine and then breakfast.Today was a kaleidoscope of colors, shapes, forms, textures, terrain and people. The soil rich like dark chocolate. A simply stupendous day!

We’re staying at the clean and comfy B&B In Piazza – literally on the Piazza in this small but uber charming hilltop medieval walled city. Roxanne’s post and photos:

Walking out of the town of

Colle Val d’Elsa.

One legged sock change

Soaking up the view

An Italian and a Nevadan showing their total joint replacement scars on their knees.

Pruning olive tree

Walking towards the hill with the towers of the town walls of Monteriggioni.

Yellow in Tuscany

No touchy

The hills are alive with weary pilgrims… the trails they have walked for a thousand years… the hills fill my heart with the sights of Tuscany… my heart wants to smile every step I take…

Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano – Friday September 28th – 9.5 Miles in 5:30 hours and we climbed a total of 1491 feet.Today we walked with Diana from New Mexico. She’s here celebrating her 60th birthday year.

12 years ago we spent 60 days in Italy for Bill’s 60th birthday. It was a remarkable trip and we covered lots of ground via the train and automobile. We’ve been back a few times. Never in a million years would we have thought we’d be walking through Italy now. What a treat.There’s many more pilgrims on the trail since Lucca. Some are going to Sienna and the others are going to Rome. On the Camino de Santiago everyone greeted each other with the phrase Buen Camino – here we just say Boungiorno.Below is a picture of must which is left over skins, seeds, and stems of grapes used to make balsamic vinegar.Vineyards and farmland.The scenery is constantly changing.We climbed to the stunning and heavily tourist filled town of San Gimignano – a medieval hill town and UNESCO World Heritage site. Known as the town of fine towers. Imposing on the inside. Marvelously massive on the outside.Rooms are expensive and almost all of the hotels were full. We happened upon an apartment called Nacci Duccio. They had three super clean rooms with private baths and flowered toilet paper. We had the whole place to ourselves. Perfect!We had a romantic dinner for five overlooking Tuscany. It was magical!

Roxanne’s blog and photos:

walking out of Gambassi TermeWalked to the town known for it’s tower houses, San Gimignano. Tanking upAgain Paige’s sewing skills saves the day!  With pink thread and a needle, she repaired the holes in a pilgrim’s shoe. Teresa at the Vella della Certosa Bed and Breakfast explained that Italians like to sing their words so they pronounce every vowel in a word.

San Miniato to Gambassi Terme – September 27th – 16.3 miles – 7 hours (no restaurant breaks just snacks out of our pack) and as a added bonus we climbed 2216 feet.Yes to the coldest morning yet – two long sleeved shirts and my coat. It took a couple of hours to de-layer down to a short sleeved shirt. By the end of the walk I was toasty in my pants.

Here’s looking back at San Miniato:Have you noticed in the photos that the sun is too often in my way? If we pilgrims could plan the Via we’d walk due South. However, the Via has us, again and again, going east and north. Everyday one of us bitches about it for a second or two and then we move on. It must be cathartic because there’s no reasonable explanation for the behavior.To spice things up a bit we walk on roads with little to no shoulders.

On this day the community offered super cool blister and cut first aid boxes.Hello hills!They look like rolling milk chocolate – plowed and ready to plant. And then… green.

Hello Tuscany!

The day was perfectly challenging.

We stayed at the fantastic Villa Della Certosa in a two bedroom suite. Chappy took the pull out sofa in the living room. Our host Theresa was the best – so helpful and kind! Felt like home.

Chappy finished off the day by getting pooped on by a bird – from his cheek to his shirt. Belly laughs had by all!Roxanne’s post and photos:

Walked from San Miniato to Gambassi Terme.

morning hit of rocket fuel

shades of green in Tuscany

shades of gold in Tuscany

shade in Tuscany

Close your eyes and turn your face into the wind. Feel it sweep along your skin in an invisible ocean of exultation. Suddenly, you know you are alive. ~Vera NazarianPonte a Cappiano to San Miniato – 9.2 miles in 6 hours including breaks. It’s Wednesday September 26th.

Say yes to a cool crisp super windy morning. It felt so good to bundle up again.

The day was perfect the entire walk.

It was a beautiful.

Have a look.We’re staying the super clean Ostello San Miniato. What a treat after last night’s grossly dirty Ostello Comunale Ponte dei’ Medici. We were charmed by the outside. Never judge a book by its cover. Take a look at the bedroom door. Ewww.San Miniato is a hilltop town with panoramic views and is as charming as it gets.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Walked out of Ponte A Cappiano

Yahoo! Autumn breeze blew in crisp and humid free air.

Cathy, there’s bets you know what this crop is.

The wind blew her old cut up 55 gallon drum out of her yard and Bill helped her put it back.

tonight’s beds

Altopascio to Ponte a Cappiano – 9.5 miles in 5 hours – Tuesday September 25thThe cool morning air allowed for long pants and a semi-heavy long sleeved shirt.

The winds were predicted to be around 16 miles an hour. Yay!After a quick walk out of Altopascio we were greeted by a trail – a soft and cushy path. We needed this.By 9:20 it was time to change into a thinner long sleeved shirt and by 11:00 I was wearing short sleeves.

Most of the day we walked through the forest. For brief periods we saw farm land, small parts of town and residential areas. The refreshing breeze gently pushed us forward and closer to Rome.We encountered two more pilgrims today – sisters from the USA. Today is their first day and they too are heading to Rome.You were right Troy when you said we needed a morale booster. Thankfully, today was that day. Easy trail, cool temps and wind.We’re staying at Ostello Comunale Ponte dei’ Medici. All five of us are sharing a room. Chappy’s bed broke – what do you expect for 20 euros?After lunch Bill and I shared the best tiramisu we’ve ever had and Roxanne enjoyed a marscapone parfait with gluten free cookies.It was a good day.

I assume we’ll be having dessert for dinner!

Roxanne’s post and photos:

walked out of Altopascio to

Ponte A Cappiano

our five bed hostel room is located in a turret over a canal

Lucca to Altopascio – 11 miles in 6 hours – Monday September 24thOur time in Lucca was fun. We actually had two days off from the Via.

Today started with a lovely cloudy morning that turned into hot sun and no shade by 11:00 am.It was a mixed bag – residential, farm land, industrial and commercial areas – lots of olive trees.We met a new pilgrim from the USA. It was her first day on the trail, she’s ultimately walking to Sienna and looked like we did on our first day. Clean, fresh and eager!

As Bill and I walked today we talked about time off vs walking daily. This break was necessary as a couple members of the Fab Five had body parts that needed resting. The respite was wonderful but today I found my pack feeling heavy and my joints needing some oil. By hour five I was longing for a train heading towards the Amalfi Coast.

I think our bodies and mind get in a groove with a daily grind. The break feels relaxing and freeing but is there a price? Bill posed the question to all of us a few days ago. How many days off in a row before you chuck the whole thing and travel? One day is necessary but what happens if you take 2, 3 or 5?

HA! You wouldn’t believe the stuff we can think about out there on the trail. Talk about monkey mind!

The weather channel says the temperature should drop by 13 degrees tomorrow. Yay!!! Currently it’s 85 and feels like 88 (according to the app). It will be interesting to see what this does to our energy level.We entered the province of Florence and are sleeping at the Albergo Paola. It’s a one star that’s better than some three stars we’ve stayed in and here why (click on the word why).

* Hey thanks everyone for all the comments and emails. It’s great hearing from you.

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Four wheelsFrom Lucca walked to AltopascioThree wheelsThis bell tower is in Altopascio. The bell is called “Smarrita” the bell of the lost that rang at dusk to help pilgrims lost in the fog and the woods.