Category Archives: Camino de Santiago

Camino de Santiago Portugues – Day 1

Walked out of cloudy Lisbon on its famous limestone mosaic sidewalks to the riverfront area where the winds whipped off the waters and blew us around.  Then there was rain…The pavement turned to a narrow path that follows the river. Rain + dirt = slippery ass mud!! 

Impossible for Bill in his flip flops. Fall left into the fast moving river – fall right into flooded fields – so flooded – sounded like a waterfall – looked like a lake. It poured and poured. There was no relief and no town for a far as our eyes could see. 

All of us quietly wondered if the path would run out…. 

4 hours, 2 snapped hiking poles and 10 falls (picture a turtle on its back) we reached pavement and a town. We made it!

44,103 steps – 18.66 miles.
We have hence learned that the first 3 days can be impassable even on a good day and certainly that after 3 rain filled days, because the trail is through alluvial plains and rice fields.

Here’s a video to get an idea: https://youtu.be/1SVXSGVZxtg

We regrouped in Vila Franca de Xira – hatched plan B and are headed to higher grounds in Tomar.

Tough start – torrential rains – narrow muddy paths – flooding and falls – lots of falls – falling down falls. It went downhill from this video. Soaked to the bone. The ground is saturated so everything is full of water – streams of water across the streets…

Grateful for lots of moments a long the way- beautiful views, fantastic friends, memories for a lifetime….

Now – all is good – safe and sound in Vila Franca de Xira. 

Tried to post the video but couldn’t do it from my phone. Go to Zigzagging with Bill and Paige on Facebook or paigeshawdotcom on Instagram to see the video.

#caminosantiago #caminoportugese #flippingrain #roughstart #flooding #photooftheday #photofrommyday2016 #paigeshawdotcom 
May 11, 2016

Photo of the Day 131

These feet are made for walking! We start the #camino tomorrow morning. 

#rainpleasestayaway #caminodesantiago #caminoportugues
May 10, 2016

Tourist comment explained…

Bill and I are tourists – we all are from time to time.

However….. As prescribed in every church, mosque and temple, that we have visited in the past months and years – when there is a service taking place it is not a tourist destination.

Bill and I were offended by the many who stepped in front of us to take a photo – gawk and then leave – oblivious to the mass taking place.

That is all I was talking about.

The day after……

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Yes – we are staying in the lap of luxury! Reputed to be the oldest hotel in the world – the Parador Hostal Dos Reis CatĂ³licos – standing right next to the Cathedral – dates back to 1499 and housed Pilgrims.

It is raining! We love the rain. However, not the perfect weather for several of our friends who arrived today.

The noon Peregrino mass was a bit of a bust for us. We arrived 15 minutes early to find the Cathedral bursting at the seams. Every seat taken. Tons of Pilgrims. Unfortunately, the red, yellow, blue, purple and green tourists groups were also there – snapping photos (it was announced in several languages that cameras were strictly prohibited). It took away from any magic we thought we might find. Their itineraries must have read “don’t miss the Pilgrim’s mass at noon”.

We stood for 30 minutes – feet aching – looked at each other and bolted.

We didn’t feel “the love” – got what we needed on the Way.

Enjoying good food, wine, gin & tonics, Cuarenta y Tres, Drambuie (there’s a theme happening here) and the down time!
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Day 33 – mission accomplished

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Day 33 – 12.50 miles

Tried to savor every last bit of our walk today. We started in the sprinkle of a warm autumn rain and ended with a partly sunny but cool day.

The walk into the plaza in front of the Cathedral de Santiago was uneventful.

The people who we have walked by for the past 33 days have trickled in at various times during the day so there is no receiving line or party – just a few scattered pilgrims and tour groups following a yellow or red flag.

Compostela (certificates of completion) are in hand.

Tomorrow at the noon mass we will gather with fellow Pilgrims.

It is hard to believe we walked 500 miles. I am one of those who drive around the parking lot to find a space closest to the door so I don’t have to walk. Bill on the other hand parks away from the door and jokes about people like me.

It is hard to summarize the Pilgrimage. Each person walks for their own reason, whatever that may be. I did this because it was important to Bill foremost but I also wanted to know if I was capable of the physical and mental challenge.

I love a challenge. Bill always jokes that I would trip my own kids to win a race. This race was between me, myself and I and I won!!! I feel stronger, more alive, closer to Bill (if that’s possible) and now possess a “to do” list longer than the Nile – a result of hours upon hours of time walking – reflecting and planning.

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Day 32 – bring it..

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Day 32 – 14.30 miles

Holy smokes, batman we are all over this walking the Camino. Tomorrow we will walk into the main square of Santiago de Compostela after 500 miles and 33 days! Whoop – whoop!!!
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Day 31 – casi

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Day 31 – 16.45 miles

Cocktails and a sleeping pill induced coma really rejuvenated us.

Good day today. Lots of hills to keep it interesting.

The newbies from Sarria were all chatty and having a splendid time although starting to show signs of discomfort.

All of us who have been walking more than 30 days are quieter – focused.

2 more days!!!

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Day 30 – Tough day for Paige

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Day 30 – 17.70 miles

I had a tough day – pain in my feet and ankles all day. Bill was a champ as alway.

Fog until noon – sunny an warm afterwards.

Stumbled on the perfect Albergue in San Xustain – story book!

Sitting at a table – books in hand – gin and tonic – surrounded by flowers – unusual for this time of year says the bar tender – should be freezing at night.

A cow herder came through with 7 cows soon after 3 men on horse back momentarily followed by chickens and a rooster!

3 more days!!!

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Day 29 – almost there

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A loopy punch drunk Peregrino stole my phone and wrote yesterday’s blog. Sorry!

Day 29 – 13.33 miles

A person must walk the last 100 kilometers of the Camino to obtain a certification of completion. Last night we stayed in Sarria – just outside the 100 kilometer mark.

At breakfast this morning all we saw were sparkling new hiking boots and Peregrinos dressed like ski bunnies.
The Camino was full.

If anyone can identify the type of tree in the close up below, please let us know.

4 more days!!!

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Days 27 & 28 – scaled the last mountain

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Day 27 – 15.34 miles. Physically demanding day. We climbed virtually straight up. Nothing compared to the first day climbing the Pyrenees when we were fresh and full of anticipation – however, the accumulation of miles on our bodies were hard felt.

One pueblo rented horses to help with the steep incline. Some Pilgrims opted for taxis (we still find this form of walking comical). – even the cyclist had their bikes delivered to the top of the hill.

Quaint pueblos, rocky trails through heavily forested land ridden with horse poop (trying to breath shallow only resulting in having to gasp for air), rolling hills lush with ferns, grass and grapes.

The fog rolled in late morning – fast and cold – visibility diminished but made for a perfect walking temperature.

Farmers were tending their sheep in the countryside and cows in town.

Our lungs got a good workout.

Day 28 – 24.15 miles – 10.25 hours!

It might have been one of the most picturesque days (we are now in Galicia) second to scaling the Pyrenees.

Started out in the fog but cleared within a couple of hours.

When you think pueblos couldn’t get more they do! Late yesterday and today each tiny hamlet had a couple of stone houses and dairy cows – barns attached to the house – air heavy with cow dung.

Rolling hills, tree lined paths and trout filled streams filled our day.

Only 5 more days!!!

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Day 26 – 3/4 finished!!!

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Day 26 – 16.15 miles – slow uphill all day. Felt good.

Grapes, grapes and more grapes. Lots of water too. Stream after stream.

7 days left!!!

Tomorrow we climb our last mountain pass.

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Days 24 and 25 – passed the highest point

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Day 24 – hiking with headlamps before sunrise, we went up 1200′, down 3,000′ and made 16 miles of progress towards our goal in 7.5 hours.

We reached the highest peak on the Camino where the Cruz de Ferro was. In current times people leave a stone with special meaning – either brought from home or picked up along the way.

We posted a photo (below) that shows our day’s hike (excuse all the scribble on the paper).

Fortunately the Pueblo we ended up in is another picture perfect Spanish town on a Sunday afternoon.

Paige had a steak dinner with Roquefort cheese and enjoyed every bite. The waitress gifted us 2 local liquors. Espresso, cigar and off to bed.

Day 25 – 14.30 miles

Last night we both felt the repercussions from the steep descent. Thank goodness for Ibuprofen.

We are back in the wine country. Red peppers are ripe for the picking. At 9:30 this morning a lady was out by her garden roasting peppers on a campfire.

The pan (bread) delivery lady was dropping off loaves of bread like mail. She cussed out a man for not coming to her truck fast enough and left a loaf for the person who was not home.

8 days left!!! Whoopie!!!

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Look for the cat on the roof.

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Days 22 & 23 – Bill 1 upped

20130914-163821.jpgDay 21 – 18.6 miles

Bill still holds his “famous guy” status for wearing flip flops only because his fans have yet to meet James, a 20+ year old with dreadlocks past his shoulders and walking BARE FOOT!

We started to see bare feet imprints this morning and then meet up with their owner. Impressive we must say -especially with the sharp rocky terrain and cold mornings.

We had to giggle last night after our blog posting. We looked at the 34 day walking guide paper and realized that we walked 1 and 3/4 days yesterday.

We are now another day ahead of schedule. Animals….

Day 23 – 14 miles.

We climbed 1,000 feet in elevation – it was a pleasant steady climb. Tomorrow we crest the highest point on the Camino.

There are 3 “recognized” ways to do the Camino – walk, bike or on horseback. Today we saw the first person riding a horse. We were in a tiny Pueblo at the Cowboy Bar no less and low and behold here comes a real cowboy (photo below of Bill’s finger and the horse).

We walked a long another fence filled with crosses made by Pilgrims. It is intriguing how it changes my thought pattern and mood. I felt emotional the first time we saw them – maybe because we were new to the Camino and the crosses were unexpected. Today I felt lighter – carefree – it made me smile.

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20130914-170555.jpgOur friends from Brazil – they always have huge smiles!!!

Day 21 – the need to be flexible

20130912-211828.jpgDay 21 – 22.36 miles!!!

It was cold, cold, cold this morning! We had to stop 15 minutes into our day to put on more clothes. Bill silently suffered in his shorts and flip flops. We were later told it was 35.5 degrees.

Within 1 hour and 45 minutes we were stripping off the layers and it ended up being a hot day – go figure.

We walked through the city of Leon. City walking is semi crappy and tough all around – from the hard road surfaces to playing “where’s Waldo” with directional signs. However, the historical city center was beautiful. The Peregrino’s guide books claim Leon has the best Cathedral but Bill and I nominate Burgos for that prize.

The town we planned to stay in had no hostels – no beds. Apparently, the sheet that we received in St. Jean listing towns and their room count was not accurate. This has been our life line since we have no guide book. For the past 20 days it has not let us down.

Soooo…. No beds equalled an additional 7 miles we had not planned on.

No problem though…. In the town with no beds we decided to be Spaniards and have their big 3 course lunch with wine at 3:15pm before heading out on our 7 mile journey.

Found a “hotel” – a real hotel – not a hostel with a private room. However it’s run by “Charlie” from Charlie’s Angels.

We buzzed the front door and a man asked what we wanted. A room of course – what else??? Got inside and a phone on the reception counter said dial 9 for servicios. Again we were asked what we wanted. A room. Charlie preceded to tell Bill in rapid fire Spanish to collect the key marked 104 from the counter – one of the 20+ keys they had on the desk and have a good night…. HA!!! No money changed hands, no names given, nada…..20130912-211901.jpg

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Day 20 and Stats Update

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Day 20 – 15.25 miles today.

We have walked 285 miles and have 215 to go.

Tonight we will sleep in our 82nd bed since we left May 1st!

There is plenty of water – rivers are full and irrigation ditches overflowing.

Stumbled upon a woman carrying a huge white rabbit that she swiftly clobbered with a club – laid it next to the previously cold cocked wraskly rabbit and started skinning it.

I can’t say enough about the weather. It is splendidly perfect!

We had a nice easy day today. Our old bodies are holding up quite well.

Bill has become “that famous guy” wearing the flip flops…. but of course he is.

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Days 18 and 19

20130909-171042.jpgDay 18 – 15.50 miles.

We walked through little villages that had mud and straw houses – also, a few earth homes where all we could see was a front door and a chimney.

The weather has been perfect – a little brisk in the morning and sunny the rest of the day – brilliant blue skies.

Day 19 – only 11.50 miles. Our choice was 11.50 or 18.63 miles – no towns in between so we took the smaller amount to rest up.

Our hostel has a private room – a huge lawn with palapas and lawn chairs!! It is only 2:30 in the afternoon – paradise.

It is a gorgeous day – high of 73.

You will see Bill when he found a duck blind and pretended he was hunting patos. Needless to say we had pollo and pescado for dinner tonight.

Who wants to meet up with us to finish this thing? You only have to walk 100 kilometers to get your credentials.

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