Category Archives: Camino de Santiago

Photo of the Day 147

A gathering place. Tonight – Bill’s birthday eve dinner in the kitchen of our Casa on the Camino. 

#billsgoingtobe70in4hours #surroundedbylove #breakingbread #caminobuddies 

Balugâes, Portugal

May 26, 2016

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 10

It’s the first day that we started with blue skies! We relished in the day knowing that tomorrow and the following 2 days will bring rain. Saturday it is predicted to rain up to 2 inches!

Today we walked a quick 8.9 miles with about 20 other pilgrims. It’s like an accordion – you bunch up and expand – bunch up and expand.

We took our last “vacation” day yesterday to visit the town of Braga – rich in history and known to have the first cathedral in Portugal. Originally, we were supposed to celebrate Bill’s birthday on this vacation day but like the weather (literally and figuratively) plans  change….

We are now luxuriating at the magnificent Quinta da Cancela in Balugâes – built in 1736.  We have it all to ourselves – the owner is having dinner ordered in and we will begin to celebrate Bill’s impending 70th birthday – 4 hours and counting.

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The market in Barcelos

Coke Zero in a glass bottle

Long Horned Cows

Roxanne stole my phito and took a photo

You decide.

Wild Calla Lillies

 

The entry to Quinta da Cancela

The surrounding of our casa

 

Playing a round of golf

 

Bill’s birthday eve dinner

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 9

It poured and poured for hours.  Our rain gear wasn’t a match – we were soaked to the bone.

The good news – today was the most beautiful of the Camino so far. Rolling hills with old stone buildings, rich dark brown tilled farmland, freshly sprouted corn rows and heavy with the smell of manure.

Since we managed to stay on the correct Camino today – we finally met up with other Pilgrims. All die hards. The walk continues in rain or shine.

The sun starting peaking out just about an hour or two before we got to our final destination of Barcelos. Our clothes dried but the shoes are still sloppy.

43,103 steps and 18.47 miles.


Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 8

The Camino book said we would be walking through the burbs of Porto for 2 days. It would be level filled with pavement and highway traffic.

Our day did not look like that. We had small towns, eucalyptus forests, hot houses, rockslide, detours, dirt paths, Hugh inclines and a marvelous day filled with the ever present f-ing dog barking.

The reason is – we walked 9 miles east of the Camino – following the yellow arrows the whole way! What the heck?  Who put them there and why?

Miraculously we came upon a BMW filled with 4 people who with Darrell and Roxanne and weird cirtumstances too long and crazy to explain – determined that we were WAY off course. They became our saviors – ordered taxis to the town we were supposed to be in – Vilarinho (only 2 hours and 45 minutes away by walking).

Chappy, Rich, Ricardo, Grande, Cheapy, Richard and Dick has acquired a few new names along the Camino – Chapmeister, Cheapmeister and Ricky Alan not to mention the new 2 blisters on his toes. Every step reminds him that he’s alive!

My Fitbit said we walked 39,604 steps and 16.76 miles. Chappy’s GPS said 18.1 miles. Tomorrow should be around the same.


 

 

“Looking up” in Porto

Things are “looking up” after a much anticipated 2 day rest in the charming city of Porto. The facades of the buildings are unique in character – from bright colored tiles, painted corrugated steel or stucco and balconies streaming with laundry.Not to mention the Duoro River, port wines and sardines.

And, of course the street art…

We start day 8 of the Camino tomorrow. It’s going to be an ass kicker with a whopping 18 miles of city pavement through the burbs of Porto.

Rumor has it that more people start their Camino here so we expect a crowd.

Camino Santiago Portugues Day 7

Another foggy start but the sun broke through much earlier today. We peeled off the layers earlier than usual. The sun makes our packs feel heavier.

We climbed straight uphill out of Agueda into a commercial area – our first experience with traffic lights – they cause congestion – roundabouts keep the traffic moving.  

The yin and yang of walking….. ugly industrial areas to beautiful abandoned mansions. 

 Noisy construction zones to peaceful fishing on a Roman bridge.

Pavement to acres and acres of eucalyptus trees with trucks harvesting the same.
***In Portugal it is imperative to own a barking dog. 
***In Portugal out of the cities it’s essential to own a tractor to work the fields and to go to town for dinner and shopping. 

In Portugal Cala lilies grow wild

and some decorators have a quirky sense of repurposing.

22,634 steps and 10.15 miles into Albergaria-a-Velha.

 

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 5

What a glorious day. Early morning cloud cover turned partly cloudy skies with a slight breeze – perfect walking weather.

No highways today! 

Wooded paths, floral paths, a few muddy paths and small town streets.

We love our coffee stops. Cafe con leite (milk) for 4 of us and cafe Americana for Chappy. 

Today we feasted on Mealhada’s local speciality Leitão à Bairrada (suckling pig). Delicious!

36,654 steps and 15.53 miles. 

Short day but our legs and feet are trashed – eating Ibuprofen like candy.


 


Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 4

Today, we Pilgrims marched to the beat of Darrel – he kept our pace. Who better but a drummer – the metronome man.  

We mostly walked the highway – sharing the road. It was loud, dangerous and DRY – skirting the low laying muddy paths.We have now stood inches from an 18 wheeler – multiple 18 wheelers – two 18 wheelers side by side going 70!

On the backroads Bill charmed a group of women – offered a sweet woman his walking sticks in exchange for her cane. She kindly accepted and didn’t want to give them back.34,616 steps and 14.71 miles- all on pavement. Our bodies are angry. 

Darrell found a great little apartment in Coimbra for tonight – wall to wall laundry.Tomorrow – the authentic Camino – hopefully with no deviations.


Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 3

We started today in the fog – it was cool, mystical and invigorating -lifting by noon. It was hilly – testing our lungs – up and down – up and down. We followed a Roman road paralleled by stone walls – tall grasses, olive orchards, wine vineyards and colorful flowers – the muddy paths forced us to trespass. Then plan B – the occasion muddy path turned into MUD all the time. We headed for the highway and rural town roads.  Pavement equals pain! It’s rough on the body. 

We endured – walked 46,881 steps and 19.91 miles.

Now in Rabaçal, Portugal. Our pension is marginal at best. The only game in town. 29 beds but private rooms – $15 euro per person – sheets and scuzzy blankets – no towels. It’s a bed and we’re grateful.

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 2

Today was our 2nd first day. 4 days ago we started the Camino only to be waylayed by the rain and flooding.

We moved to higher ground and started again today in Tomar. A quaint town with a UNESCO World Heritage Site – Templar Castle and Convent de Cristo.

Portugal is in bloom – limes, oranges, loquats, calla lillies, roses, bottle brush, fushias, poppies, lemons, figs, grapefruit, daisies, pansies, birds of paradise, carnations, iris and numerous more….

If we weren’t walking on pavement we were walking in mud. Tip toeing around trying to find the driest areas. The previous rain still seeping out of the earth.

We marveled in the beautiful weather, breathtaking scenery and  camaraderie. 

Ultimately, it kicked our asses! 

45,162 steps – 19.11 miles.

Tomorrow is our first second day.