Yesterday we passed 2 milestones! We have now walked over 1/2 of the Camino and have completed 1/2 of the days!!!
Let the count down begin….
Category Archives: Camino de Santiago
Day 17
Day 17 – 17.40 miles.
It poured rain last night and today our trail surface was perfect! No mud like the other day. We were so lucky!
Days 14, 15 & 16 on the Camino de Santiago
Day 14 – walked 12.5 miles.
We took off a day between 13 and 14 and rested our feet, got haircuts and had a wonderful dinner under the Cathedral.
Shocking to us – on our walk into Burgos we saw Pilgrims on the bus! They actually waved to us and gave us the thumbs up sign. We did not see one person from the trail walk into town! What’s up with that??
Many Pilgrims start in Burgos – so the trail was littered with new people. The town that we decided to stop in was overflowing and the community had to open up the gym to accommodate everyone.
Flies everywhere – on our face, ears, arms, under Bill’s glasses, face, nose, face, arms. URGH! We should have taken it as a sign….
We got 2 of the last beds in the Municipal Hostel. 8 people in our room. 2 people sawed enough logs to service the whole town with wood for winter!! Bill actually asked me around midnight if I wanted to leave. Not sure what he had in mind since the town was full – the next town was 12 kilometers away and it was pouring rain. We opted to pack our ears with plugs and I down a sleeping pill. Ugh! I won’t even go into details about the bed and the year old sheets…
I think we are the only pilgrims without a guide book!
Day one in St. Jean Pied de Port we were handed 2 sheets of paper. One had a 34 day walking plan that showed kilometers and elevation. The other showed each town along the way and whether or not there was a hostel and service there. Basic.
Someone asked Bill how we are doing it and he told them Christopher Columbus did not have a map!
Before stopping in Burgos we deviated from the suggested 34 day plan and hit the middle towns – tiny villages not occupied by the masses.
So….. with that said.
Day 15 we walked 20.5 miles – trying to separate ourselves.
We started out walking in the mud – adding another 1/2 pound to our feet!
Remember how Bill asked if I wanted to walk a marathon and I said hell no. Does 20.5 miles with a backpack, muddy feet and 2 mountain climbs and descents in 1 day after walking approx. 200+ miles equal a marathon?? You tell me?? I think it qualifies!!!
We paid for a private room after the previous night – ahhhh.
It’s was another small town of about 150 people but there were 16 men playing cards at the bar and the local fiesta started. Carlos and Jesus were tending the bar.
Day 16 – Did I mention we had a private bath with towels and sheets on the bed last night???
Today (Sept. 7th) we walked a little over 15.5 miles. Started out rainy, cold and windy but ended up being a beautiful day.
Almost no one on the Camino – we accomplished our goal.
It appears that most churchs or “torres” have stork’s nests. Today is the first time we actually saw a stork!!! They do exist! No baby in it’s mouth!
We stumbled on the most beautiful 12 room hotel in an old family house in a town with only 12 residents – yup you read that right – 12 residents. The cousin of the duomo is helping out and will cook us a 4 course dinner tonight. There are only 2 other people staying here and they are Spaniards on vacation!
The gal left us a bottle of wine on the reception counter and ran to the store to buy food for dinner. The reception area has overstuffed couches and a 50″ TV. Oh and there is wifi!!!
Days 11, 12 and 13
Donation did not equate to bedbugs!! Yeah!
The town was tiny – no restaurants were open in the evening so the hostels served dinner.
The local bakery donates bread to the church’s dinner (served at the hostel we passed on). All they ask for in return is for the pilgrims to gather in the street – announce what country they are from and then form groups based on their common languages and sing a song – any song.
The baker hand picked a few of pilgrims – slapped wigs on them and had them sing La Bamba while delivering the bread to the church. Of course, Bill was a perfect target – performing famously!
Day 11 – 17.4 miles – tough day. Our feet hurt – bodies hurt – brain hurt. We slept 12 hours making a remarkable recovery.
Day 12 – 12.5 miles – much better!! We can always feel our feet yelling at us but today was tolerable.
The sun shined and the breeze helped keep us from boiling. Fall is in the air. Slept another 12 hours!!! In bed by 6:45.
Day 13 – today Sept. 3rd – walked 13+ miles. Weird walk – started out straight uphill on jagged rocks and then on road pavement and city sidewalks through 2 cities – ending in Burgos. Trails are much better.
We used our points and splurged – staying in a real hotel with sheets, towels and A/C.
Taking tomorrow off – I’m starting to look like “the Donald” and “Don King” combined. We also need to rest our feet to gear up for the next 20 days…
Spiritual Pilgrim loses his sole
Day 10
15 miles today. Cold morning – had to stop and add clothes – by mid afternoon the sun was warm – especially climbing hills.
The first hostel we stumbled on was on the top/3rd floor of an old church. Beautiful! However, the sleeping room was in a loft area with 30 mats on the floor. Not! A German Public TV crew was there making a documentary about the Camino (of course they pick the only hostel without beds to show how we struggle along the way).
The only other option was a hippiefied hostel. Donations only. Basic and painted by someone on quaaludes. They have beds. We will rest our heads there.
Does “donations” mean sorry about the bed bugs???
Dove hunting must have opened today (the weather felt just like home). The shotgun fire was brisk and we saw game wardens driving through the hills.
We ran into the Cruz Roja (the Red Cross) – they gave me a shirt and thanked me for volunteering.
I learned today that I can walk and make things at the same time – the crosses on the fence inspired me to make another…..
Tomorrow we walk uphill the whole day! Hello calves….
Days 8 & 9
14 miles on day 8 and 15.25 miles today. We have completed a little over 25% of the Camino.
Tonight we will sleep in our 71st bed since we left May 1st.
Yesterday we walked past a 1/3 mile of chain link fence full of crosses made by Pilgrims using sticks, grasses, socks etc. It evoked a strong, immediate response – one of joy, sadness, accomplishment and a reason for the Camino. We both added to the approx. 10,000 crosses already there.
Every night we have a Basque Pilgrim’s (peregrino) dinner – 3 courses – wine, bread and water included.
Bill before….
Bill after…
Day 7
12 miles today. This will be our shortest day.
Bill actually asked me if I wanted to walk a marathon after this!
My response??? No and hell no!
Perhaps after 3 more weeks of walking I might have a delusional moment and agree to it. Right now I am earning couch potato time.
In all seriousness it does get so much easier. Times actually flies by….
We have met the most interesting and delightful people. It has been heartwarming and inspiring – as well as a kick in the pants. We giggle regularly.
We are huge fans of Burning Man and now this for it allows us to be able to take part in the “human experience”. There is big world out there. It makes my life, at least, fuller by being a part of the “global” experience. I am truly humbled and grateful.
using clothes pins to hold my skirt up – rocking the goober look
Day 6
Day 6 and 14 more miles. It is getting easier. The hills are a bugger! Nothing like a steep incline to get the heart pumping.
We are on the trail between 7 am ish. It’s a tiny bit chilly and warms up quickly. The breeze the past couple of days has made the sun bearable.
It is funny how the walk is like an accordion – at times it is just the two of us and at other times there’s a handful of people. The lulls in between people make for good trail side potty breaks.
The villages cafe hosts the biggest group of pilgrims – a welcome site during the day – cafe con leche y un bocadillo por favor!
A buen camino it has been!!
Day 5
14 miles again today. We both had more energy.
No blisters and no bed bugs.
Rent the movie “The Way” with Martin Sheen.
Day 4
Only 14 miles today. Still hurts like hell. Can I say that when I’m on a pilgrimage??
The good thing is that everybody hurts so we are not special.
No blisters.
It rained too. No rain jackets. Just added to the fun.
We have met people from Australia, Northern Ireland, Singapore, France, Spain, Holland, South Korea, USA, Columbia, Brazil, England, Scotland and Canada.
Came upon a field of sun flowers with faces.
Day 3 on the Camino
We have completed day 3 of the Camino and have walked about 60 miles.
By the end of each day we feel as if we can not put one foot in front if the other. Our bodies are screaming at us to stop!
We are very fortunate and have no blisters! Bill is wearing his flip flops and I am wearing light weight Merrill Barefoot Sneakers. Everybody else on the Camino has on hiking boots and their feet are wrecked – day 3 must be blister day.
Too pooped to write more…..
Hasta luego…
Change of plans
We arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port today after staying in Bayonne, France last night.
We received our Camino passports, finished the little odds and ends we had to do and we are ready to roll on out of here.
The first day will be the hardest for many reasons but it will actually be the greatest elevation change.
We will climb 1200 meters (4000′) in elevation – over the Pyrenees from France to Spain – 27.4 km.
See ya in Roncesvalles, Spain!
On our way
Today we left Salamanca heading towards our starting point for walking the Camino. We are now in Burgos, Spain.
Talk about shedding all worldly possessions.
We left on our trip May 1st with “carry on” backpacks. We are used to traveling “light” but today we embark with “light” minus, minus.
My pack (Bill’s is mostly the same minus the skirt) – skirt, leggings, nylon yoga pants, 2 tank tops, 2 t-shirts, 2 long sleeved shirts, a down shirt, flip flops (for the scuzzy showers) and a pair of Merrill barefoot sneakers. Toothbrush and hair goop – silk sleeping sack to keep those nasty bed bugs away from my skin and a hat. No make up!!
Sounds like a lot when I write it down but it all fits in a backpack the size if a kids school sack. Weight – 10 pounds.
Oh… and this is it for 42 days!!!
The walk starts Friday…
New pack
Switching things up!!
How’s this for luck? Found a store that had 1 pack, 1 minute before they closed – 1 day before we leave Salamanca.
This is also a test run – blogged from my iPhone using the phone’s camera!
