Tag Archives: Pilgrimage

Day 2 of the Via Francigena

Yesterday ended at the Chateau Verdun in the charming town of St. Oyen, Italy (originating in the 11 century). The Chateau was given to the Canons of the Great Saint Bernard Monastery in 1137 by a Savoy. On the property is a Benedictine convent and a large cow milking barn chock full of cows with their tails tied up. Explanation pleaseThe staff treated us so kindly and felt like family. It’s the Italian way.

This morning had us well rested. Luck had it that the five of us shared a ten bed room. Fortuitously Bill and I got a king size bed in the private loft area.

Delicious coffee gave us to fuel to head into another gorgeous day. White fluffy clouds and 50+ degrees.

The icing on the gluten free cake is that it’s Rockenstein’s birthday!!!13.3 miles and another 2,600 feet decline in elevation.Our day was somewhere written in a fable. Rolling farm land lush with vegetables, pasture and alfalfa. Belled cows sounding like chimes blowing in the wind. Fruit trees heavy with fruit. Charming villages. Winding tree lined paths laden with pine needles. Fast flowing irrigation boxes rushing with excitement. Stream beds flowing in utter silence.Thank goodness for the surrounding beauty because every elevation change (however minute) hurt our weary legs. Yesterday’s descent was brutal.

We are now in Aosta. Staying at Albergo La Belle Epoque and living like royalty for tonight we have private rooms!It is Roxanne’s birthday and we’re all celebrating.

Here’s Roxanne’s post and photos:

If the Fab Five were one person, that person would be 28 1/2 feet tall and turn 329 years old on the Via Francigena.

Day 1 of the Via Francigena

In keeping with our style the Fab Five (new name thanks Cathy & Kevin) decided to head out a day early.

We all met up yesterday at the Hospice du Grand Saint Bernard in the Swiss Alps.

Cheapmeister, Bill and I came from Martigny, Switzerland by train and bus. Darrell and Roxanne came from Aosta, Italy by taxi.The bus ride was nail biting and thrilling at the same time.

It was foggy, windy, cold and blustery at the top.We layered up and walked to Italy (200 meters) for cocktails and hot chocolate. Our dorm room slept 16 (8 sets of bunk beds) and had equal amount of cubbie storage space. Spotless. Lucky for us nobody snored.Our dorm We woke to stirring of our bedmates followed by soothing music that was played throughout the Hospice. Lovely.

Coffee and bread for breakfast. Certainly not the breakfast of champions. However, we came prepared so no worries.Miraculously it was a clear and glorious day! We layered up for the cold and within 500 meters stripped down. What a contrast from the day before.We walked approximately 11 miles mostly downhill – a 3660 foot drop. It was stunning beyond description.Our bodies were shouting at us by mile seven. Knees, hips, back… all asking us what the hell we were doing to ourselves.

We shouted back and kept walking.

Now showered up, clothes on the clothesline. Staying at a 1000 year old monastery/hospice. Roxanne and I are writing and the boys are at the bar.

In the other part of our building is a group of walkers who are here for spiritual reasons and are practicing a vow of silence.

Magic.

“After a day’s walk, everything has twice its usual value.” – G.M. Trevelyan

Now here’s Rockenstein…

Our reunion with Bill, Paige, and Chappy at Grand Bernard Pass, Switzerland was as fresh and invigorating as the rolling fog and crisp wind.

We were all warmed up by tea elegantly poured by the Monk named Frederic.We spent the night where 40,000 of Napoleone’s soldiers once hung out and for 300 years the Saint Bernard dogs sniffed through fog, ice and snow finding those of us who got lost. The Fab Five are keenly aware of this precious moment in time to show up able bodied and willing to walk 620 miles to Rome, Italy.

Why? For the pure joy of being able to walk the Via Francigena.

Internet is really slow so no videos today.

Slowly Making Our Way

Martigny, Switzerland seemed liked a great place to rest up and acclimate to the time change before we start walking the Via Francigena.

This charming community of 18,000 people of which 25% are expats rests at 1545 feet above sea level and at the base of the Alps. The hillsides are lush and bursting with grapes. The hills are starting to turn falls colors but the flowers are still happy and colorful.

Home to the St. Bernard Museum, a Roman Amphitheater, the La Bâtiaz Castle and one old wooden bridge (1823).A three night stop gave us ample time to explore, rest and eat our way through town.

Tomorrow we head north to 8,100′ where we will spend two nights at the Grand St. Bernard Hospice – founded nearly 1,000 years ago. Starting in the 17th century monks at the hospice bred and raised the St. Bernard rescue dogs to help with snowbound travelers. Today there is no need.

Hunters, pilgrims and Napoleon have laid their weary heads upon this spot high in the Alps.

Tomorrow five pilgrims from Nevada will be added to the list.

Images of Martigny…Postings and photos are all from my iPhone. Here’s my first attempt at loading videos. They appear sideways on my screen but play in the correct direction. If it’s harsh (or sideways) looking at it on a computer please let me know.

Follow us as we walk the Via Francigena

map credit ©️OutdoorTravel http://www.outdoortravel.com.au https://bit.ly/2zbnHyh Thanks for the map!

That’s right.  Approx. 1000 kilometers.

This time it’s the Via Francigena (fran chee gena).

From ancient and medieval times it connected Canterbury to Rome. Today most pilgrims start in the Swiss Alps. Luckily, unlike our predecessors, none of us have to return home by foot.

Different from the famous Camino de Santiago where over 200,000 pilgrims annually walk the 500 miles from St. Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain the Via has only a combined 2,500 walkers, bikers and horse riders.

Bill and I walked the Camino de Santiago Frances in 2013 and in 2016 walked the Camino de Santiago Portuguese with Vino Verde Man, Chapmeister and Rockenstein . It was so utterly perfect that the five of us, on September 3, 2018, will step out the door of our hostel at the Great St. Bernard Pass in Switzerland and make our way to Rome.

The first two days have us descending 6,000′ in elevation. Hello knees…In the meantime, we walk to build up our strength. Unfortunately, the last couple of days have us walking at the local community center as our hometown has the most hazardous air in the USA caused by the horrific fires in California.

Curious about what’s in my pack??

If you didn’t read my ultimate packing guide from the last pilgrimage hop on over and check it out.

I made some adjustments – more than expected in the consummate search for perfection.

Here’s the list (new means different from last time):

  • New pack – the Osprey 24 liter Sirrus
  • The same Nike shorts which unfortunately have been discontinued.
  • New (update – North Face changed the material and the new ones are too thick)  North Face Everyday Pant
  • New North Face on the Go Skirt (forgoing the skort)
  • Target tank top
  • New Athleta Speedlight Tee
  • Same Lulu Lemon Swiftly Tech Short Sleeve
  • Smartwool – one each – Mid-Weight and Light-Weight long sleeve shirts
  • A crazy and stupid indulgence – hippie palazzo pants from Walmart – who said ya can’t be groovy on a pilgrimage?
  • New My Trail Co rain gear – jacket and pants. Jealous of Rockenstein and Vino Verde  when they stepped out in the torrential rain all duded out with their My Trails rain attire. They stayed dry when I soaked to the bone in my cheap $1.99 rain poncho.
  • New REI 650 Down Jacket
  • OMG – I get to wear new but the same  Altra Footwear Lone Peak 2.5 shoes!! YAY!! Shoes are the most important part of this whole list.  Altra is now on version 3.5 with 4.0 coming out any day now. They changed their design and frankly the changes do not work for me. Geared up to wear the Altra Timp Trail – actually hiking in them with a friend when I realized she was wearing my favorite 2.5’s. Where did you get those???? Rockenstein! The zero drop wasn’t her thing so she passed them on. Well, that generous friend who only wore them twice gifted them to me. Doing a happy dance every time I put them on. Thank you Boo!
  • Crocs backup shoe for the end of the day, showering, etc.
  • Tights, undies, bras, merino wool gloves, a neck buff, homemade pillowcase with velcro to stuff my down jacket in to make a pillow.
  • Travel size toiletries.
  • Sea to Summit Traveller silk sleeping sack to keep the cooties away.
  • PackTowl ultralite beach towel

All weighing in at 11 pounds. Of course, I’ll be wearing some of those clothes so my pack will be lighter.

You men might be wondering what’s in Bill’s pack.  Basic black and flip flops!

We’re super excited. Jump on board and walk with us. Tell your friends to sign up for our blog – http://www.billandpaige.com.  Instagram Story @paigeshawdotcom and Facebook @billandpaige.

See you there!

The day after……

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Yes – we are staying in the lap of luxury! Reputed to be the oldest hotel in the world – the Parador Hostal Dos Reis Católicos – standing right next to the Cathedral – dates back to 1499 and housed Pilgrims.

It is raining! We love the rain. However, not the perfect weather for several of our friends who arrived today.

The noon Peregrino mass was a bit of a bust for us. We arrived 15 minutes early to find the Cathedral bursting at the seams. Every seat taken. Tons of Pilgrims. Unfortunately, the red, yellow, blue, purple and green tourists groups were also there – snapping photos (it was announced in several languages that cameras were strictly prohibited). It took away from any magic we thought we might find. Their itineraries must have read “don’t miss the Pilgrim’s mass at noon”.

We stood for 30 minutes – feet aching – looked at each other and bolted.

We didn’t feel “the love” – got what we needed on the Way.

Enjoying good food, wine, gin & tonics, Cuarenta y Tres, Drambuie (there’s a theme happening here) and the down time!
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Day 33 – mission accomplished

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Day 33 – 12.50 miles

Tried to savor every last bit of our walk today. We started in the sprinkle of a warm autumn rain and ended with a partly sunny but cool day.

The walk into the plaza in front of the Cathedral de Santiago was uneventful.

The people who we have walked by for the past 33 days have trickled in at various times during the day so there is no receiving line or party – just a few scattered pilgrims and tour groups following a yellow or red flag.

Compostela (certificates of completion) are in hand.

Tomorrow at the noon mass we will gather with fellow Pilgrims.

It is hard to believe we walked 500 miles. I am one of those who drive around the parking lot to find a space closest to the door so I don’t have to walk. Bill on the other hand parks away from the door and jokes about people like me.

It is hard to summarize the Pilgrimage. Each person walks for their own reason, whatever that may be. I did this because it was important to Bill foremost but I also wanted to know if I was capable of the physical and mental challenge.

I love a challenge. Bill always jokes that I would trip my own kids to win a race. This race was between me, myself and I and I won!!! I feel stronger, more alive, closer to Bill (if that’s possible) and now possess a “to do” list longer than the Nile – a result of hours upon hours of time walking – reflecting and planning.

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Day 32 – bring it..

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Day 32 – 14.30 miles

Holy smokes, batman we are all over this walking the Camino. Tomorrow we will walk into the main square of Santiago de Compostela after 500 miles and 33 days! Whoop – whoop!!!
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