Tag Archives: Camino

Day 3 of the Via Francigena

Aosta to Nus

11.3 miles. It felt like we walked a slight incline all day with a steep quick drop at the end. Come to find out we climbed 1200 feet and descended 1500. Funny how our minds work.

Our legs hurt like hell but that’s a given so I won’t talk about it anymore. Each day the legs will get better and then the accumulation of miles will make our feet hurt. It has to be that way so we appreciate the beauty that surrounds us.

We crack each other up when we see the other use the stairs or sit or stand.

“When words become unclear, I shall focus with photographs. When images become inadequate, I shall be content with silence.” ~ Ansel Adams

Roxanne’s post and photos:

Bill and Paige lit up our imaginations with the idea to explore a country slowly step by step. After two years planning, recovery from two operations, and selling all household trinkets we are mind, body and pocket-book ready to walk to Rome on the Via Francigena.

Day 2 of the Via Francigena

Yesterday ended at the Chateau Verdun in the charming town of St. Oyen, Italy (originating in the 11 century). The Chateau was given to the Canons of the Great Saint Bernard Monastery in 1137 by a Savoy. On the property is a Benedictine convent and a large cow milking barn chock full of cows with their tails tied up. Explanation pleaseThe staff treated us so kindly and felt like family. It’s the Italian way.

This morning had us well rested. Luck had it that the five of us shared a ten bed room. Fortuitously Bill and I got a king size bed in the private loft area.

Delicious coffee gave us to fuel to head into another gorgeous day. White fluffy clouds and 50+ degrees.

The icing on the gluten free cake is that it’s Rockenstein’s birthday!!!13.3 miles and another 2,600 feet decline in elevation.Our day was somewhere written in a fable. Rolling farm land lush with vegetables, pasture and alfalfa. Belled cows sounding like chimes blowing in the wind. Fruit trees heavy with fruit. Charming villages. Winding tree lined paths laden with pine needles. Fast flowing irrigation boxes rushing with excitement. Stream beds flowing in utter silence.Thank goodness for the surrounding beauty because every elevation change (however minute) hurt our weary legs. Yesterday’s descent was brutal.

We are now in Aosta. Staying at Albergo La Belle Epoque and living like royalty for tonight we have private rooms!It is Roxanne’s birthday and we’re all celebrating.

Here’s Roxanne’s post and photos:

If the Fab Five were one person, that person would be 28 1/2 feet tall and turn 329 years old on the Via Francigena.

Day 1 of the Via Francigena

In keeping with our style the Fab Five (new name thanks Cathy & Kevin) decided to head out a day early.

We all met up yesterday at the Hospice du Grand Saint Bernard in the Swiss Alps.

Cheapmeister, Bill and I came from Martigny, Switzerland by train and bus. Darrell and Roxanne came from Aosta, Italy by taxi.The bus ride was nail biting and thrilling at the same time.

It was foggy, windy, cold and blustery at the top.We layered up and walked to Italy (200 meters) for cocktails and hot chocolate. Our dorm room slept 16 (8 sets of bunk beds) and had equal amount of cubbie storage space. Spotless. Lucky for us nobody snored.Our dorm We woke to stirring of our bedmates followed by soothing music that was played throughout the Hospice. Lovely.

Coffee and bread for breakfast. Certainly not the breakfast of champions. However, we came prepared so no worries.Miraculously it was a clear and glorious day! We layered up for the cold and within 500 meters stripped down. What a contrast from the day before.We walked approximately 11 miles mostly downhill – a 3660 foot drop. It was stunning beyond description.Our bodies were shouting at us by mile seven. Knees, hips, back… all asking us what the hell we were doing to ourselves.

We shouted back and kept walking.

Now showered up, clothes on the clothesline. Staying at a 1000 year old monastery/hospice. Roxanne and I are writing and the boys are at the bar.

In the other part of our building is a group of walkers who are here for spiritual reasons and are practicing a vow of silence.

Magic.

“After a day’s walk, everything has twice its usual value.” – G.M. Trevelyan

Now here’s Rockenstein…

Our reunion with Bill, Paige, and Chappy at Grand Bernard Pass, Switzerland was as fresh and invigorating as the rolling fog and crisp wind.

We were all warmed up by tea elegantly poured by the Monk named Frederic.We spent the night where 40,000 of Napoleone’s soldiers once hung out and for 300 years the Saint Bernard dogs sniffed through fog, ice and snow finding those of us who got lost. The Fab Five are keenly aware of this precious moment in time to show up able bodied and willing to walk 620 miles to Rome, Italy.

Why? For the pure joy of being able to walk the Via Francigena.

Internet is really slow so no videos today.

Slowly Making Our Way

Martigny, Switzerland seemed liked a great place to rest up and acclimate to the time change before we start walking the Via Francigena.

This charming community of 18,000 people of which 25% are expats rests at 1545 feet above sea level and at the base of the Alps. The hillsides are lush and bursting with grapes. The hills are starting to turn falls colors but the flowers are still happy and colorful.

Home to the St. Bernard Museum, a Roman Amphitheater, the La Bâtiaz Castle and one old wooden bridge (1823).A three night stop gave us ample time to explore, rest and eat our way through town.

Tomorrow we head north to 8,100′ where we will spend two nights at the Grand St. Bernard Hospice – founded nearly 1,000 years ago. Starting in the 17th century monks at the hospice bred and raised the St. Bernard rescue dogs to help with snowbound travelers. Today there is no need.

Hunters, pilgrims and Napoleon have laid their weary heads upon this spot high in the Alps.

Tomorrow five pilgrims from Nevada will be added to the list.

Images of Martigny…Postings and photos are all from my iPhone. Here’s my first attempt at loading videos. They appear sideways on my screen but play in the correct direction. If it’s harsh (or sideways) looking at it on a computer please let me know.

Glasgow, Northern Ireland

Glasgow Art MuseumGlasgow – Inland except that the River Clyde accommodates large ships that are built here, lowland, business capital, the old city is dying but the new city is thriving, the medieval university is exciting.

Especially interesting to us – the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum was built as a replica of the Spanish Baroque styled Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Spain which holds a special place in our hearts as it was the destination of our two Camino’s.

 

 

Best of the Best Camino Attire – Shoes and Clothing

One of the hardest decisions to make about walking the Camino is what shoes to buy.

I have had the privilege and honor of first walking the Camino de Santiago Frances (all 800 kilometers of it) in September and then the Portugues route (616 kilometers – minus a bit for flooding and adding some for getting super lost) in May.

So.. with some authority I will tell you about the hands down primo shoes to walk in and then share what clothing worked best for me and what I would change in the future.

Altra Lone Peak 2.5Shoes: Altra Footwear Lone Peak 2.5  For men and women, without question these are BEST, most comfy and light weight shoes (the 3.0 is out now).  You do not need hiking boots!!! My Camino buddy and I both wore these and did not get blisters.  Why? The size of the toe box.  It’s large and roomy. Your feet will swell so it is important to buy 1/2 size larger than what you normally wear.   Click on Altra Running for technical information. Altra Lone PeakAfter reading about these and other top recommended shoes I ordered 24 pairs from Zappos and returned 23.  Zappos rocks – delivery and returns are free!

It wasn’t until after our first Camino Frances that I learned how many people agonize about what socks to buy – some spending a fortune. I bought thin, cheap Hanes socks – thinking less was more – less to rub.  For fun and warmth I wore Bad Ass knee socks from Sock it to Me – made of cotton, polyester and spandex – more proof that socks don’t matter.Bad AssImportant factors in choosing what clothes to pack: comfort, weight and quick drying.

Since we were traveling through Europe before this last Camino I needed clothing that would work for travel as well as the walk. My wardrobe dictated what kind of trip it would be – no fine dining or theaters for us!

So here are the clothing items that I had in my pack:

  • Target  tank top – great for sleeping, layering or when it’s hot
  • Prana short sleeved t-shirt
  • Lululemon short sleeved shirt
  • REI’s Smart Wool Mid-Weight Long Sleeve Crew
  • Icebreaker BodyfitZONE Zone Long Sleeve Half Zip
  • Lululemon Studio Pant – love the versatility of the drawcord hem
  • Nike Rival 6″ short – getting harder and harder to find the 6″ length
  • Patagonia Tech Fishing Skort
  • Eddie Bauer Micro Therm Down Jacket (ultralight)
  • Icebreaker Flexi Chute – neck thingy
  • Crocs backup shoe for the end of the day, shower, etc.
  • leggings, undies, bras, merino wool glove, hat and a cheap rain poncho

What would I change? Probably the Studio Pants by Lululemon.  They were perfectly comfortable for both Caminos but this time we experienced lots of rain.  UGH!  The bottom of the pants got in the way (too wide and quasi heavy when wet) and the fabric absorbed the water all the way up to my bum. Two of our Camino buddies had lightweight rain pants that they wore in lieu of regular pants on rainy days.  Depending on the time of the year I would consider those, ditch the Studio Pants and figure out an alternate super lightweight pant.Chilling with my CrocsNext, a better rain poncho since the cheap one allowed the rain to soak through.  Lastly, a better neck buff – one that fit tighter.  The Icebreaker model was too loose and didn’t do its job – it was more like bling but did not provide warmth.

That’s it – no more changes.  Super easy.

OR easier yet – you can pack like my husband.  He walked into REI – picked out t-shirts, shorts and a pair of pants off the clearance rack without trying them on.  Went to Goodwill and bought  a $5.00 sports coat (he said we all look like we stepped out of some sporting goods catalog and refused to fit the mold) and 2 pairs of Nike flip flops. YUP – he walked the Camino in flip flops!

 

Photo of the Day 159

Burned my Camino shirt at Land’s End in Finisterre today. 

#camino #finisterre #peregrino #pilgrim 

June 7, 2016

Photo of the Day 157

Nothing like a great cigar after walking the Camino de Santiago. 

#caminodesantiago #santiagodecompostela #peregrino #pilgrim #cigar

Santiago de Compostela, Spain

June 5, 2016

Camino de Santiago Portugues Final Day 20

Life is simple on the Camino – walk, eat, sleep, walk, eat, sleep, walk… Oh and follow the yellow arrows – sometimes it’s like “Where’s Waldo” but that’s part of the fun.Yesterday, June 4th we walked 26,850 steps and 11.38 miles into Santiago de Compostela. The crazy Peregrino video. Click here.

We had the best time and couldn’t have asked for better Camino buddies. Some picked up new trail names: Rocknstein and Chapmeister. Darrell had a love affair with Vino Verde. Bill managed to wear his flip flops everyday and was discovered to be a contrarian and I talked too much and was referred to as being a pain in the ass. 

Bill did the math and realized that we spent approximately 400 awake hours together which equals about 5 to 10 years of socializing. Sort of like speed dating…Our bodies stood the test of time and distance. Consider the writing on a Pilgrim’s t-shirt: Know Pain Know Gain.We are Peregrinos!!!The video of our entry into Santiago de Compostela – click here. 

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 18

I took way too many photos today. So how about I post some (still too many) and you tell the story.

If you decide to share your story please sign your name to it.

37,357 steps and 15.81 miles to A Escravitude, Spain. 


Photo of the Day 154

Enjoying the 104 degree water at the public thermal water foot bath in Caldas de Reis, Spain. 

#caldasdereis #spain #camino #peregrino #pilgrim #caminodesantiago 

June 2, 2016

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 17

Every morning we start with jackets, beanies and knee socks. The air is crisp. Within 2 hours we’ve worked up a sweat between our backs and packs – the rising sun forces us to exchange clothes for sunblock. 

Below are photos taken in order so that you may enjoy the Camino with us. 

Today we all felt like barn horses hoping to reach our hotel in Caldes de Reis  (known for its thermal waters) sooner than later. We walked with purpose. 

31,108 steps and 13.41 miles took us to our rooms at the charming Balneario Hotel Dávila. 

A peek into the kitchen at our morning coffee stop.

Our 2 accordian players and their amigo.

Another dog looking for lunch!

Train tracks.

Our 2nd coffee stop.

The stench coming from this building was awful!

Flowing river plants.


Darrell sipping his wine bowl.

Bamboo garden at our hotel.

Public thermal foot bath.

Camino de Santiago Portugues 16

This day couldn’t have been more beautiful – magical in fact – from the weather to the Camino.We started out with a heart pounding – lung squeezing steep climb.We walked through fern forests, up narrow traversing streets, across a Roman bridge where the Spaniards beat Napoleon, quiet suburban neighborhoods and up again over mosaic rock paths worned by Roman chariots – topped off with song birds and crystal clear rivers with trout and fouls gold sparkling in the sun.

Roman Chariot indentations in the rocks

Roman Chariot indentations

 

We walked 27,714 steps and 11.76 miles into Pontevedra, Spain – famous for seafood and the birthplace of the Santa Maria – the largest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus.

The Atlantic.

At times we walk on busy highways.

Laundry time at the local community fountain.


Roman Bridge.

The tide is out and the boats hang out.


Taking off layers.


Killer dog trying to eat us under the gate.


Camo Fisherman


Photo of the Day 152

Into the light Pilgrims emerge.

 #camino #caminodesantiago #peregrino #pilgrims #light
North of Porriño, Spain.

May 31, 2016

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 15

Bill and I slept with a mosquito last night. That darn thing buzzed our ears for hours. After jumping out of bed and turning on the lights 4 times trying to kill that f**king thing Bill ultimately smashed it in his ear. We only had 2 hours left to sleep.

Another glorious day through wooded areas on cushy paths and rural neighborhoods on pavement.

Ferns, ferns – everywhere.

Yucky burbs.


We had the best Pilgrim’s lunch today. It is where I fell in love with Fabado – cooked beans similar to pinto beans. I dressed them with vinegar, salt and a bit of Tobasco Sauce. Unbeknownst to the rest of the group I have never eaten a bowl of beans. My new favorite meal! When Bill and I walked the Camino Frances we learned to eat the Pilgrim’s menu (a starter, entre and dessert) at lunch time instead of the usual 8:30 mealtime. Opting for a glass of wine and less heavy tapa in the evening.

We walked 28,330 steps and 12.02 miles into Cesantes, Spain where some of our rooms overlook the Atlantic. 

The Atlantic.



Hydrangea bigger than my hand.

Granite walls for the longest distance.

The outline on the ground for displaying flowers for Corpus Christi Day

The afternoon washing of our clothes

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 14

What a marvelous day! 

It was so good to be back on the Camino after 2 days and 3 inches of rain. Not to mention it is wonderful to be back in spectacular Spain!

España cares about marking the Camino, they cater to the Peregrino, the towns are lively but that darn siesta hour is so hard to get used to. 

Our walk today was filled with delightful views, soft terrain, goats, sheeps, crosses, horses, Roman bridges, roses, kiwi farms, hydrangeas, trout streams, lots of pilgrims and Chappy’s bottom.

We walked 26,489 steps and 11.26 miles into Porriño, Spain.

The building sign says Vending

Here is the vending machine.

Pan = Bread. This is in the block wall around a house.

Mail and Bread

Lots of Pilgrims


Chappy

A painting on a block wall.


Kiwi Farm

Photo of the Day 151

Without a shadow of a doubt we are pilgrims. 

#peregrinos #pilgrams #camino #spain #caminodesantiago #shadow 
Somewhere north of Tui, Spain.

May 30, 2016

Camino de Santiago Portugues Day 13

It POURED last night and continued this morning so once again only our waterproof amigos headed out to walk to Tui, Spain. 

We were paid huge amounts of money to go ahead and secure a hotel with heaters and a bathtub for Roxanne. 

Adios Portugal – Hola España.

Our rock stars walked 13.5 miles through the mud and around  lots of puddles. The clouds parted and they showed up dry!

Photo of the Day 150

 Camino de Santiago Portugues in Tui, Spain. 

#camino #peregrino,#pilgrim #tui #tuy #spain 

May 29, 2016