Family time back east went by way too fast. The days were full and sleep was welcome “early” every evening.
Our flight from Atlanta to Harare, Zimbabwe (through Johannesburg) on Delta was uneventful. It was super cool and a bit shocking to see flight attendants quite older than me. One in particular was so sweet and had fun flirting with Bill telling him how handsome he was. Most were cheerful and well versed in their jobs – absolute veterans. Fortunately, only one must have been an old United attendant from the past. I’m sure some of you know what I’m talking about.
We left Atlanta at 9:50 pm and arrived in Harare at 9:50 pm. We virtually lost a day.
Zimbabwe (don’t you love the way that flows off your tongue – so exotic) is home to almost 17 million people living in an area the size of Montana.
There are 16 official languages and everyone speaks English. They use the US dollar not trusting their local currency. Wikipedia says their official unemployment rate as of 2022 was 80%. One of our drivers said it’s more like 96%, stating that government expropriation of white farmer’s land was the cause. Government expropriation makes people and companies fearful of making new investments. He was saddened that South Africa might be heading down the same road.
Most of the cars are Toyotas – ordered online and shipped directly from Japan. A 30 day turnaround. Not built to USA standards but more affordable than buying locally. New vehicles start at $9,000.
Many people asked us about Trump and brought up losing aid from America. They were all glad and hoped it would make a difference for their country. Hoping that the government would learn to make its own way. I was surprised by the response.
Phew – didn’t mean to detour like that.
We had no plans for Harare other than a place to stay. We’d wing it. I picked a gorgeous lodge 11 kilometers (7 +/- miles) and a half hour drive from the airport.
Wow! Even in the dark our lodge was an extraordinary oasis. Beautifully decorated in a lush tropical jungle hidden behind tall concrete walls topped with electrified wires. Robbers? Wild animals?
Mosquito nets draped the bed and the free wine called out my name. I read the hotel guide book and decided a trip to an animal sanctuary the following day would be fun. Sleep came around midnight.
Apparently, visiting an animal sanctuary was the “thing to do” – there was no availability. The pros and cons of unplanned travel. Obviously, leisure time at the lodge was in order and it was perfect.
The daylight version of the drive to the airport revealed tall walls topped by wires protected at almost all properties. Concrete homes and businesses lined the streets and corn and beautiful, tall orange flowers grew in open fields. People walked to and fro on the soft grassy shoulders and makeshift shops selling food and home goods lined the roads
A quick flight from Harare took us to Victoria Falls. We stayed at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge on the Zimbabwean side.
The main gathering area at the hotel was open air and overlooked an endless sea of green trees – luckily it’s the end of the rainy season and fall is just around the corner. A nearby watering hole attracted a variety of animals from elephants to warthogs.
The restaurant rid their food waste by feeding frantic vultures at 13:00 every day. (Feeding video link) We marveled how Pavlov’s theory worked in the wild. So accustomed to the feeding time, vultures started flying in to nearby tree an hour early. It was like LAX. Some would start to land and have to circle to find space on a branch.
We were assured that the wire fence surrounding the property would keep the wild animals away. Somehow the warthogs found away around it and were grazing by the front lobby.
Being the end of the rainy season, the falls were mighty and thunderous, nearly two miles wide. Absolute power beyond anything we’ve ever witnessed. The spray literally rains on portions of the pathway – the sound almost deafening.
At the end of the falls is a one lane bridge to Zambia built in 1909. Big 18 wheelers lined the roadside filled with coal that they’ll sell in Zambia. In Zambia they get copper from the mines and sell in Zimbabwe.
People also walk back and forth from each county to sell goods. Immigration is quick and easy. I walked with a gal from Zambia heading to the Zimbabwean side to sell okra, soap and other trinkets at three times her cost. She made an arrangement to set up in a restaurant. Her mother passed away at 16 and she learned quickly how to fend for herself and siblings. Now she feeds her family.
We flew back to Harare and stayed in the city for a night. Like most third world cities there was a mixture of beautiful old buildings and hideous concrete structures. Traffic was crazy. The sidewalks uneven and broken, mini shops like a kid’s lemonade stand lined the sidewalks, bars protected businesses, people dressed for business walked with purpose but many men just seemed to be idly “hanging out” (the cost of unemployment). The Harare Garden Park offered a reprieve from the sun.
Zimbabweans were as sweet and kind as anyone could imagine. They spoke in whispers. Strangers even paused to say hello.
Zimbabwe – its sound so sweet….
