Tag Archives: hiking

Rwanda part two – Gorilla time


***Warning – this posting contains a ridiculous amount of gorilla photos (click to enlarge) and videos (click the blue words).

We slept like babies after crawling into our toasty bed – water bottles snuck in by the staff while we ate dinner were a welcome treat.

Up at 5:30 am and breakfast by a warm fireplace. We’re ready!

I forgot to tell you that  before we checked into the hotel we went to the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund to learn about Dian and the gorillas.

Did you know that we share over 98% of our DNA with gorillas?  Every evening the gorillas make a new a new nest – they never have to change the sheets!  Pregnancy lasts for 8.5 months. They’re vegetarians and eat up to 55 pounds of food per day.  They laugh when they play and boy oh boy do they play!

The first phase in seeing the gorillas was an orientation at the park headquarters.  Trackers keep an eye on the gorilla’s location and report back to the rangers.  They then form groups of eight depending on your age, health and physical fitness and assign you a group. The trek can last from two to seven hours depending on what group you’re placed in. There are three levels.  We’re able to “request” one of the three.  I will reword their levels.  Level one – old and not in great shape.  Two – great shape.  Level three – crazy and uber fit animal!

Guess what group we hiked with?

Our group contained three Brits, two Canadians and an American.  We headed out with our drivers to the next meeting point.

The morning was gorgeous however, we were told to not rely on that.  We had our rain gear as well as gloves to keep the stinging nettles off our hands.

Our group met up at the Volcano’s National Park 20 minutes away. At this point you can hire a porter who will walk with you, carry your gear and assist you getting up and down the mountain.  It is recommended that you hire one to help the local economy.  Their pay $10.00 or whatever amount you want to pay above that. 

And away we went….

Slow and steady went the old person’s group.  Did I mention how beautiful Rwanda is?  We walked through lush farmland and climbed the steep mountain about two hours before we met up with the Kwisanga  family of gorillas.

Since our DNA is so close we had to put a facemask on before we got close to where they were.  The rangers don’t want us making them sick.

I was a little nervous about the gorillas after seeing videos where they would run by a person and knock them over.  Any fear that I harbored melted away immediately .  Kinda like I don’t hear the Jaw’s theme music when I scuba dive even though I’m afraid of a shark attack.

The gorillas could have cared less that we were there.  Some were lounging and others played like little kids.  There was one silverback (male) and the rest were females.  One mama held her one week old baby and the four month old gorilla played like a five year old rolling around with the teenagers. They really do smile and I would say laugh as well. It’s so endearing.

The hordes of flies circle them like rotting fruit abandoned in the sun.  The flies left us alone.  We were allowed one hour with the gorillas.  At one point the silverback woke up from his nap and wondered off.  We followed him for a bit and got to watch him sit and eat before we returned back to the family at large.

It was incredible!!!

The sky began to weep minutes before we had to leave.  The timing was perfect.  It made a tough, super slippery and thrilling decent back down the mountain.  Our shoes were completely full of mud.  The rain ended just before we finished.

We returned to Kigali for one more night before heading out again.

Did I mention how beautiful Rwanda is?

Had to show you Bill’s shoes made brand new by housekeeping at our hotel.

Crazy how airport security differs.  Upon arrival at the Kigali Airport – Bill and I had to vacate the car while it was completely searched and go into a building and be body scanned before entering the airport property.

The Great Walk of Africa Day 9

What you don’t know won’t kill ya. Apparently that’s not the way in the bush. 

This morning I felt like Emily Blunt in the The Quiet Place movie.  The predators are out there….  There’s no Jaws movie music Da dant da dant da dant.  Not only have we taken the oath of silence so have the predators.  It’s a quiet killing grounds in Tsavo. The only things making noise are the harmless birds.  HA!!! The stuff I think about…..

Lots of game sightings today – zebras – elephants – gazelles…

Click to enlarge photos…

It was a peaceful day with no heart pumping events.

Until we were about to cross the Galana River back to camp. Toiko and Washii started into the water when a crocodile’s tail took a swing at their ankles. Both jumped back to the shore quicker than a Kenyan runner. Toiko minus a sandal. He returned to camp shoeless. Poor guy.  It will be a long time before the guys stop teasing him about this one.

The surface beneath our feet is a bit of a conundrum – harsh, dry, and barren like the surface of the moon and closer to the shore there’s beautiful fine white sand. There are a few springs of greenery sprouting.  Otherwise, food seems either non-existent or inedible.  How any animal forages and lives in this area is baffling

Look who tried to wander into camp. Yes. That’s Bill at our tent.

Hello Bill – do you see the elephant?

On our evening game drive we drove up to a male and female pair lounging in the sun.  Jokes about the manly lion ensued… To prove his virility the male jumped on the female. Big her in the shoulder and did his thing. Who’s king of the jungle now?

Tomorrow is our last day of walking and it will be a full day. We leave at our usual 7 am departure time and will not be returning until 6 pm…..

First day walking the Great Walk of Africa

Our day starts with Jambo Jambo – the 6:00 am wake up call spoken by the man who fills our bowls with hot water every morning.

Hot coffee, tea and breakfast are waiting in the mess camp.Departure time is 7:00 am.

While we walk our campsite is completely broken down and set-up at a new location. Our laundry is washed as well.

Walking rules: Single file with no large gaps between us and don’t make a sound. The person who is at the front of the line is to rotate to the back every half hour or so. Don’t be kind to the people behind you by holding a branch to allow others to pass. Just move through it.

* click on photos to enlarge

Guarding us is Iain and five skilled Samburu bush men (wearing sandals made of tires), with weapons, as follows:

Iain – Rigby Ruger 416
Washii (he and Lajori switch places every other day) – spear and machete
Tioko – Rigby Ruger 416
We’re in between
Ekutan – Bruno 458
Lajori – spear machete
Lokori – Bruno 458

The red laterite-rich soil is uneven beneath our feet. The ground is stamped with hippos, elephants, lions and giraffes (many more) tracks.  Dung is everywhere.

I know it’s called “the bush” but better terminology might be “the thicket”,  “the brush” or “the bramble”.   It’s thick and unforgiving.After a half hour of moving branches and thick brambles out of my way I channeled Mohammad Ali and started dodging, weaving and ducking to avoid being pierced by long thorns.  It became quite fun and just when I started getting cocky I’d get slapped square in the face by a catapulted branch. Oh, to be humbled…

We had a challenging river gorge portion of the walk. Lots of rocks and sand with a steep drop to the river. A crocodiles refuge. It was challenging and rewarding and none of us fell in.

Iain had warned us about charging hippos and how dangerous they are. Our first big sighting of hippos were ahead in the river. I figured we saw them in the distance and that was good given their danger level. That’s not Iain’s attitude. We needed to see them up close and personal.  As long as we remained silent they wouldn’t know we were there. It was spectacular and scary.  Hippos forage at night. During the day they submerge themselves in the river to avoid the sun which burns their sensitive skin.  Often times you can’t see them in the water and then suddenly they pop up like a bobber after a fish has eaten your bait. Weighing about 3,000 pounds they can run remarkably fast. Certainly faster than humans.

Every hour or so there is a rest stop and potty break.  Out of caution we only go to the bathroom in the direction we came from and only a few feet away.

We stumbled upon a zebra carcass that Iain suspects was killed in the last week.  Notice how they left the legs untouched.

It was an invigorating day and animal sightings were plentiful. The mandatory vow of silence was not only for our safety but good for the soul.  Time passed quickly.

We finished walking around 12:30 pm. Just in time for a fabulous lunch.  Tea time at 4:00, hot showers at 5:30 followed by campfire cocktails and dinner.

Off to bed.  Rinse and repeat.