Enjoying the 104 degree water at the public thermal water foot bath in Caldas de Reis, Spain.
#caldasdereis #spain #camino #peregrino #pilgrim #caminodesantiago
June 2, 2016
Every morning we start with jackets, beanies and knee socks. The air is crisp. Within 2 hours we’ve worked up a sweat between our backs and packs – the rising sun forces us to exchange clothes for sunblock.
Below are photos taken in order so that you may enjoy the Camino with us.
Today we all felt like barn horses hoping to reach our hotel in Caldes de Reis (known for its thermal waters) sooner than later. We walked with purpose.
31,108 steps and 13.41 miles took us to our rooms at the charming Balneario Hotel Dávila. 








































This day couldn’t have been more beautiful – magical in fact – from the weather to the Camino.
We started out with a heart pounding – lung squeezing steep climb.
We walked through fern forests, up narrow traversing streets, across a Roman bridge where the Spaniards beat Napoleon, quiet suburban neighborhoods and up again over mosaic rock paths worned by Roman chariots – topped off with song birds and crystal clear rivers with trout and fouls gold sparkling in the sun.
We walked 27,714 steps and 11.76 miles into Pontevedra, Spain – famous for seafood and the birthplace of the Santa Maria – the largest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus.















Bill and I slept with a mosquito last night. That darn thing buzzed our ears for hours. After jumping out of bed and turning on the lights 4 times trying to kill that f**king thing Bill ultimately smashed it in his ear. We only had 2 hours left to sleep.
Another glorious day through wooded areas on cushy paths and rural neighborhoods on pavement.
When Bill and I walked the Camino Frances we learned to eat the Pilgrim’s menu (a starter, entre and dessert) at lunch time instead of the usual 8:30 mealtime. Opting for a glass of wine and less heavy tapa in the evening.
We walked 28,330 steps and 12.02 miles into Cesantes, Spain where some of our rooms overlook the Atlantic.














It was so good to be back on the Camino after 2 days and 3 inches of rain. Not to mention it is wonderful to be back in spectacular Spain!
España cares about marking the Camino, they cater to the Peregrino, the towns are lively but that darn siesta hour is so hard to get used to.
Our walk today was filled with delightful views, soft terrain, goats, sheeps, crosses, horses, Roman bridges, roses, kiwi farms, hydrangeas, trout streams, lots of pilgrims and Chappy’s bottom.
We walked 26,489 steps and 11.26 miles into Porriño, Spain.












It POURED last night and continued this morning so once again only our waterproof amigos headed out to walk to Tui, Spain.
We were paid huge amounts of money to go ahead and secure a hotel with heaters and a bathtub for Roxanne.
Adios Portugal – Hola España.
Our rock stars walked 13.5 miles through the mud and around lots of puddles. The clouds parted and they showed up dry!

Winter.
Salamanca, Spain
Our time in Salamanca is coming to an end. We leave in five days.
Spanish classes have run the gamut. The amount of information that has been crammed into this tiny old brain of mine is hard to fathom.
In keeping with the whole “student” experience – last week I succumbed to the sickness being passed around the school – right down to losing my voice and making conversation class impossible. I didn’t want to be selfish so shared with Bill – one week later and we are both sick.
It is cold, cold, cold. On certain days the fog rolls in and clings to the antiquated buildings, making the town feel ominous. We long for our fireplace…
Bill walks 3 – 5 hours a day. He has learned the landscape of Salamanca hither and yon.
He starts near the Plaza Mayor where we have fallen in love with the formally appareled Spaniards, dressed every day, all day in their Sunday best. The woman are complete with full length fur coats, hair coiffed and make-up worn with precision – age not a deterrent. Husbands and wives walk arm in arm. Infants are bundled in their prams and children frocked as if they were heirs to the throne – a throwback to a bygone era.
He heads away from the scene in the snow globe toward the other parts of Salamanca, down winding paths along the river – home to a cat lady and her 20 plus felines, a homeless camp with a man huddled next to a fire to keep himself warm and families strolling with their dogs.
We had a fun and welcome break two weekends ago when Mark and Jonel came to visit. We indulged – libations, pastries, food, pastries, sight seeing, pastries and cards – fun times!
Salamanca….
A classic Sunday breakfast – blueberry pancakes with Aunt Jemima syrup – thanks to the American store that opened around the corner. One would have thought we bought caviar considering the price but Ohhhh was it worth it!
We took a nice long walk on this glorious fall day. Grass is still green but the trees are changing and there’s a chill in the air.
I started intensive Spanish school today – 5 hours a day – 5 days a week. Bill said the total hours are equivalent to 7.5 semesters of school.
Bill also walked me to school and took my photo – I felt like I was 5 years old again. He also picked me up for lunch and gave me permission to walk home allllll by myself!
The accent is Spain is difficult to understand – they talk with a lisp. Poco a poco.
We walked 1.2 miles (our feet still hurt) to the grande Carrefour store (similar to a Walmart with food) with the intention of taking a taxi back home with all of our treasures. The taxi stand was empty and we left our new Spanish cell phones home because we were together – who else would we call??
The man at the lottery booth instructed me to go back into the store and use the pay phone to call a taxi.
After several unsuccessful attempts I asked the security guard for help. It’s been about 19 years since I used a pay phone – in Spanish no less. I was happy to find out that the pay phone was broken and not operator error. The security guard kindly called us a taxi.