This time we had a long day getting from New Delhi, India to Sharm el Sheikh, Egypt. We flew through Dubai (plane had a lounge) and Cairo (aplane had ashtrays in first class).
It’s a vacation from our vacation.
We stayed at the Renaissance Hotel at the tip of the Sinai Peninsula on the Red Sea. The resort is huge and is more like a timeshare than a hotel – unbeknownst to us most guests booked as an all- inclusive resort.
Wikipedia says the population is 13,000 but everyone we talked to says nobody lives in Sharm. I think what they mean is nobody is “from” Sharm. Everyone is from somewhere else in Egypt. Workers work for a month or two then get ten or so days off and go back home. Housing is provided by the employers.
Sharm is the scuba diving and snorkeling capital of the Red Sea. Our hotel was full of Egyptians, Russians, and Italians. American tourists typically do not vacation here.
Sharm was originally a military base and fishing town and in 1968 Israel made it into a tourist center. In 1956 Israel concurred the Sinai Peninsula and returned it back to Egypt in 1957. The UN Peacekeeping force was stationed there until the Egyptian president kicked them out in 1967. In 1968 there was a six day war and Israel gained control once again. In 1979 the Israel-Egyptian Peace Treaty was signed in Washington DC and in 1982 the Peninsula reverted back to Egypt. Phew. It’s like watching a game of pong.
Friends from home, Mark and Jonel, flew in to meet us for an Egyptian escapade.
First adventure – a 3.5 hour drive to Mt. Sinai to see where Moses received the 10 Commandments and to St. Catherine’s Monastery to see the Burning Bush where God spoke to Moses.
Our driver, Mohamed, from Cairo, young, handsome and super personable, drove us through endless treeless mountains. On the side of the road there was scrub brush, an occasional acacia tree, sprinkled in with camels.
The mountains are endless. Dry, without a sign of life. Some are rounded and smooth as if time rubbed the edges off. Others are like shale, splintering, and flaking off. Trails of red and black stone filled grooves and made long meanderings paths on the mountain side. Tented Bedouin camps are now mostly replaced by concrete houses.
Due to Easter week, the monastery would be closed. We booked to stay at an inn next to the monastery hoping to glean spiritual vibes from the location. At least we could see the historic mountain.
Most people come to climb Mt. Sinai. It’s arduous and done by the majority in the middle of the night to be able to see sunrise from the top. This was not in the cards for our group. We were good with a visual from the ground.
Jonel and I tried to sneak into the Monastery and were busted by a monk named Ramadan. We begged and begged for a look around to no avail. Moments later our wonderful driver, Mohamed, more convincing than we, got us in. Quick, quick – you have 5 minutes.
Ramadan gave us the “speed dating” tour. We saw the well where Moses met his wife Zipporah, and the Burning Bush where God spoke to Moses. We were not able to enter the Orthodox Church but we actually got to see what we came to see.
It really is remarkable how people lived and got around in ancient times. This year is my 4th consecutive year of reading the Old Testament and being here really makes the Bible come alive. While reading I try to visualize the surroundings. Even by watching Biblical movies it’s hard to really grasp the barrenness of this area. Seeing it gave me a new profound appreciation for how tough times were. No shade, no water, no food – nothing.
The inn was basic. Two twin beds but had a private bath with hot water, a simple dinner and breakfast.
Back to the resort the following day where we partook in scuba diving, snorkeling in the chilly, turquoise waters, boating with hundreds of dolphins, and just being plain lazy. A perfect retreat from the hustle and bustle.
Now off to Cairo…
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- President’s beach home
23 years ago Bill traveled to Cebu in the Philippines to dive. It was remote, pristine and quiet – as advertised in the back of an airlines magazine. The warm, clear water and humongous fan coral left a lasting impression. Something that had to be shared.
