Tag Archives: Landscape

Rwanda part two – Gorilla time


***Warning – this posting contains a ridiculous amount of gorilla photos (click to enlarge) and videos (click the blue words).

We slept like babies after crawling into our toasty bed – water bottles snuck in by the staff while we ate dinner were a welcome treat.

Up at 5:30 am and breakfast by a warm fireplace. We’re ready!

I forgot to tell you that  before we checked into the hotel we went to the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund to learn about Dian and the gorillas.

Did you know that we share over 98% of our DNA with gorillas?  Every evening the gorillas make a new a new nest – they never have to change the sheets!  Pregnancy lasts for 8.5 months. They’re vegetarians and eat up to 55 pounds of food per day.  They laugh when they play and boy oh boy do they play!

The first phase in seeing the gorillas was an orientation at the park headquarters.  Trackers keep an eye on the gorilla’s location and report back to the rangers.  They then form groups of eight depending on your age, health and physical fitness and assign you a group. The trek can last from two to seven hours depending on what group you’re placed in. There are three levels.  We’re able to “request” one of the three.  I will reword their levels.  Level one – old and not in great shape.  Two – great shape.  Level three – crazy and uber fit animal!

Guess what group we hiked with?

Our group contained three Brits, two Canadians and an American.  We headed out with our drivers to the next meeting point.

The morning was gorgeous however, we were told to not rely on that.  We had our rain gear as well as gloves to keep the stinging nettles off our hands.

Our group met up at the Volcano’s National Park 20 minutes away. At this point you can hire a porter who will walk with you, carry your gear and assist you getting up and down the mountain.  It is recommended that you hire one to help the local economy.  Their pay $10.00 or whatever amount you want to pay above that. 

And away we went….

Slow and steady went the old person’s group.  Did I mention how beautiful Rwanda is?  We walked through lush farmland and climbed the steep mountain about two hours before we met up with the Kwisanga  family of gorillas.

Since our DNA is so close we had to put a facemask on before we got close to where they were.  The rangers don’t want us making them sick.

I was a little nervous about the gorillas after seeing videos where they would run by a person and knock them over.  Any fear that I harbored melted away immediately .  Kinda like I don’t hear the Jaw’s theme music when I scuba dive even though I’m afraid of a shark attack.

The gorillas could have cared less that we were there.  Some were lounging and others played like little kids.  There was one silverback (male) and the rest were females.  One mama held her one week old baby and the four month old gorilla played like a five year old rolling around with the teenagers. They really do smile and I would say laugh as well. It’s so endearing.

The hordes of flies circle them like rotting fruit abandoned in the sun.  The flies left us alone.  We were allowed one hour with the gorillas.  At one point the silverback woke up from his nap and wondered off.  We followed him for a bit and got to watch him sit and eat before we returned back to the family at large.

It was incredible!!!

The sky began to weep minutes before we had to leave.  The timing was perfect.  It made a tough, super slippery and thrilling decent back down the mountain.  Our shoes were completely full of mud.  The rain ended just before we finished.

We returned to Kigali for one more night before heading out again.

Did I mention how beautiful Rwanda is?

Had to show you Bill’s shoes made brand new by housekeeping at our hotel.

Crazy how airport security differs.  Upon arrival at the Kigali Airport – Bill and I had to vacate the car while it was completely searched and go into a building and be body scanned before entering the airport property.

Hello Rwanda

Land of one thousand hills.

Boarding time for our RwandAir flight started an hour before the flight.  While we were walking toward the gate from we heard our names over the loud speaker.  A bit strange as it was an hour before the flight. Lo and behold they boarded all of us early and efficiently and the plane departed 40 minutes  before schedule.

We arrived in the dark and what stood out were the lights from hordes of motorcycles resembling dirt bikes buzzing around and waiting in droves for the traffic signal.

*Click photos to enlarge. Click on blue words to see a video.

Rwanda is the third most densely populated country in the world.  A bit smaller than Maryland with approximately 13,700,000 inhabitants.

The country suffered mass genocide in 1994.  It lasted approximately 100 days and a million people were massacred.

Per Britannica (plus my snarky comment):  “The genocide was conceived by extremist elements of Rwanda’s majority Hutu population who planned to kill the minority Tutsi and anyone who opposed those genocidal intentions. It is estimated that some 200,000 Hutu, spurred on by propaganda from various media outlets (imagine that!!!) participated in the genocide. More than 800,000 civilians—primarily Tutsi, but also moderate Hutu—were killed during the campaign. As many as 2,000,000 Rwandans fled the country during or immediately after the genocide.”

Our driver, Kevin, said his family fled to Uganda during this time.  His family repatriated when he was 16.  He’s now 27 years old.   Their community in Uganda consisted of mostly Rwandans.

Rwanda is stunning!  Windy-turny roads, spotless clean, perfect sidewalks (even in mountain areas), no potholes,.  Trees line the streets in the capital.  Beyond is farmland and then jungle.

Poor Kevin must have heard me say “this is so beautiful” a thousand times.  One for each hill.

We spent time in Kigali, the capital.  It was safe to roam around anytime of the day.  Beautiful buildings interspersed with typical unattractive concrete structures.  Because the country is so well cared for those structures do not scream neglect like other third world countries.

We had a driver take us to the huge Kimironko market.  Jammed packed with local fresh food, home goods, hardware and miles of colorful fabric with seamstresses begging to sew you something.  If only we had room in our luggage!

While walking in Nyamirambo, the Muslim neighborhood, we decided to sit at the most popular restaurant for a bite to eat.  Restaurant row was closed to traffic and offered restaurant after restaurant to choose from.  All but one was empty – hawkers tried to lure us in. Of course we choose the restaurant with clientele.  Mucoco must have had 30 employees all wearing t-shirts with their roles embossed on their backs – waiter, cleaner, supervisor, and protocol.  Security people acted like concierges.  A hard working lady adorned in an abaya and hijab also served meals.  Sweat ran down the brow of workers with the rate of hustle serving everyone.  I had the thickest, creamiest, heart attack in a bowl – their version of chicken soup.  It was delicious with local hot garlic chili sauce on it.

** I wrote this a couple days ago and it just now dawned on me that the reason all the restaurants were empty was because it’s Ramadan.  Apparently, our restaurant was full of non-Muslims.

We traveled to Rwanda to see the gorillas.  The drive was three hours long and pure eye candy.  I wish we could have driven slower for all the photo opportunities.  Instead I upped the shutter speed and snapped away.

Not only does Rwanda’s have 1,000 hills it includes mountains and volcanoes.  In this area the three extinct volcanoes range from 12,000 to 15,000 feet. Interestingly when this part of Africa was carved up one volcano went to Uganda, one to the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the other to Rwanda.

The single lane (one in each direction) road was used by huge 18 wheelers, cars, trucks, motorcyclists, bicyclists (ridden and used to carry heavy goods), walkers (carrying their wares on their shoulders or head), little children, goats, sheep and cows.  The roads are paved and in perfect shape.   Many areas had sidewalks, retaining walls, and street lights.

Did I mention how beautiful Rwanda is?

There’s not much wasted space in the country. Tiered hills with rich, dark, volcanic soil are either full of crops or ready for the next planting – weedy – where some men but mostly woman bent over 90 degrees hoeing. Corn season is over and hangs drying in large open air buildings.  Banana plants are prolific and potato plants are growing at various stages.

Homes range from concrete to mud huts and there are no signs of trash anywhere.

We spent the night before our trek in the mountains.  I chose a budget lodge .  The cost of the park permit to see the gorillas was $1500.00 each so we conserved.  It was great.  It reminded us so much of places we have stayed in China.

We were greeted with a glass of fresh squeezed juice and two plates of snacks and fruit.  We were handed a typed sheet of paper and a pen to choose what we wanted for dinner.  There were two choices plus lots of side dishes.

The room  was not attached to the lobby/restaurant.  It was huge (the whole place bigger than our tiny house) and sparse with stone floors and concrete walls surrounded by jungle – which equated to no sunlight which equaled a frigid room.  Lucky, there was a plug-in heater and closing the door to the cavernous bathroom helped the heater do its thing.  The innkeeper said it would take a minute or so for the water to warm in the shower.  That didn’t matter to us. There was no way we were getting naked in that cold room plus the towels were still damp from being laundered.  Bill and I hopped under the covers until dinner time.

We learned we were the only guests.  A coal burning pottery stove was placed beside our table and a candle provided ambience.   The dinner portion was fit for a king and the food was delicious.  We were embarrassed to hand back our plates with only a portion of the food eaten.

By the time we returned to our room the heater had made the space toasty and the staff had put hot water bottles between our sheets.

Up at 5:30 for our 6:00 pickup to head to the gorillas.

To be continued….

Cádiz, Spain

We boarded Oceania’s Riviera cruise ship out of Barcelona on a partly cloudy day.  It’s small by comparison with 1250 passengers.  However, it feels huge compared to our last Oceania cruise that had only 690 passengers.

Our room is palatial – not much smaller than the tiny house we moved out of two years ago.  Last time we had an inside cabin not much larger than the bed.  This time we have a balcony and there’s enough room to throw a party!

My mother and stepfather are on board and just down the hall.

The first day was a sea day.  Relaxing and invigorating at the same time.  It felt great to get back in the gym after being away for 2 weeks.

The first port of call was Cadiz, Spain.  The historic town was literally out our balcony door.

Cadiz was founded by the Phoenicians some 3,000 years ago making it one of the oldest cities in Western Europe.

In 1980 the remains of a Roman theater were discovered and partially excavated.  Said to be built during the 1st century BC.  It is claimed to be one of the largest theater ever built in the Roman Empire.  I think someone with Napoleon syndrome made this statement and the tourism board ran with it.

It was great fun exploring the narrow streets that just oozed “Spain”.  Tapas and a caña (beer) at a street side cafe made it oh so perfect. The temperature was ten degrees warmer and the rain was finally gone.

Un día perfecto.

 

Hello Grenada – Island of Spice

A quick 35 minute flight from Trinidad.  Grenada is an island (21 miles long by 12 miles wide) in the West Indies and an independent commonwealth of the UK.

It’s our vacation from our vacation.  Three days of vegetating by the clear, warm turquoise waters of the eastern Caribbean Sea.

Dreadlocks in my space!

See ya in the USA….

Back in Suriname

Back to Paramaribo, Suriname to finish what we started.  We met a great group of people on the border crossing boat who all spoke English.  A lady who currently lives in French Guiana having escaped Vietnam in 1975, a man from Laos and another from Cambodia all going to Suriname for the Easter weekend.

Like the masochists we are we decided to walk in the heat of the day to the Arya Diwaker Hindu Temple – a mere 5 plus miles. 


We passed through the bustling Central Market where herbs and dried greens were stacked high and sold for medicinal purposes.

Having been warned that the women shopkeepers didn’t like their photographs taken, I took heed and asked a gal for permission to take photos of her goods, promising to exclude her.  She kindly said yes and oh what a stir that caused.  Another shopkeeper came running up to cuss me out.  In my best English I told her to take it up with the person who gave me permission.  Bam.

We took a boat trip up the Suriname and Commewinje Rivers that led us to Nieuw-Amsterdam, Rust-Werk, Johan-Margaretha and Plantage Frederiksdorp.  Like visiting the landlocked country of Eswatini (Swaziland) last year – it felt a bit like forced tourism.  I’ll be kind and just say…

We enjoyed being on the water. The breeze from the boat’s movement cooled the pools of sweat on our bodies.  We played Where’s Waldo with the frolicking dolphins that live in the brackish waters.  Our boat weaved and bobbed in the swift river current.  It was the highlight of the day.

Plantage Frederiksdorp looked charming on the internet.  It’s an old plantation turned hotel/resort.  Our last stop.  A two hour stop!  UGH! Two hours.  It was suggested that we relax by the pool.  Apparently good and relaxing for people with no sense of smell!! The moldy, black, stagnant water sitting in the canals around the pool and bar reeked so badly that I had to hold my breath and briskly walk back towards the entrance to get some relief.  Poor Bill was also gagging but wondered where the fire was.  I didn’t want to have to take a breath until I was clear of the area.   Under the shade of a big tree we did relax and read.

Below the surface and unseen, drug and human trafficking are evil problem in these adjoining countries – a gateway to the United States and Europe.

Our take away from Suriname is the people.  Very warm and friendly.  We loved that, from our point of view, many cultures communed without animosity.   Our boat captain said it still a work in progress…

We’re super glad that we explored this part of South America.  It’s not on the bucket list for most Americans but we’re honored for having been the few.

From Bill:  Guyana in indigenous lingo means “Land of water” and included two additional land areas north and south prior to colonization. There is much water. Basically one paved road runs from Venezuela to Brazil on the coast where more than 50% of each country’s population lives.

The populations are very diverse, mostly from importing slaves, or post-slavery, “indentured workers” from Java, India and somehow, China. Its a bit strange to see some of these nationalities on horseback and tractors, or to hear unusual languages spoken by differing nationalities (e.g. Chinese speaking  French). However, the dominant nationality is African, presumably because there were more slaves than slave masters.

Cayenne and Kourou, French Guiana

Back to Cayenne to our little apartment.  It was actually great if we only could have moved it to a different location.

*click on photos to enlarge

French Guiana has a strong Creole culture.  They speak French and Creole – very few speak English.  It’s part of France, henceforth the E.U. and uses the Euro.  The locals feel like France’s ugly stepchild and are quite bitter about France taking the gold and oil profit from the region and sending it back to France.

Per Wikipedia – The first French establishment was recorded in 1503, but they did not establish a durable presence until colonists founded Cayenne in 1643, were forced to leave by Amerindian attacks and then finally established a permanent settlement in 1664. They lost it again to the Dutch, English and Anglo-Portuguese until 1814 when it returned to French control.

After France ceded Louisiana to the United States in 1804, it developed Guiana as a penal colony, establishing a network of camps and penitentiaries along the coast where prisoners from Metropolitan France were sentenced to forced labour…. Approximately 56,000 prisoners were sent to Devil’s Island.

Per Britannica:  In 1852 Napolean III decreed that convicts with sentences of more than seven years were to be sent to French Guiana, and Cayenne became known as the city of the condemned. The prisons were closed in 1945.

Cayenne is hilly and charming as heck with old French colonial wooden houses and swaying palm trees resting between the Cayenne and Mabury rivers.

Worse than the large wide river in Oiapoque the narrow rivers near Cayenne completely stop navigation at low tide.  The boats look like shipwrecks from a storm.  I can feel the hurl rising in my throat when our cabbie talks about the local fresh fish sold in the streets of Cayenne.

The ruins of the hilltop Fort Cépérou allow for beautiful long views of the city, river and beyond.

An hour west of Cayenne and heading back towards Suriname is the town of Kourou.  Our next stop for a couple days.

Kourou is home to the home of the Guiana Space Center.   The main spaceport of France and the European Space Agency. 

According to space.com:  The French government began launching satellites there in 1964, and offered to share it with the European Space Agency when the latter was created in 1975.  ESA contributes two-thirds of the spaceport’s annual budget every year. The spaceport has also been used for launches for the United States, Japan, Canada, India and Brazil, among other countries.

Like many launch sites worldwide, Kourou is located near the equator. Its latitude is 5 degrees 3 minutes north, ESA says, which makes it a good location to launch missions that will operate at or near the equator. That’s because the Earth’s rotation acts as an extra source of propulsion for the rocket as it brings the satellite into space, saving fuel and money. It also allows for satellites to be heavier since less fuel is required.

Off the coast of Kourou is the famous Devils’ Island part of the three Îles du Salut, or the Salvation Islands known from 1852 to 1953  as “the Green Hell”.   A penal colony housed more than 80,000 men (only 30,000 survived).  The movie starring Steve McQueen tells the story of Henri Charrière, the author of Papillon, and his efforts to get away.

L’ile St. Joseph and Ile Royal are open to the public.  An hour and a half boat ride from Kourou.  Devil’s Island is permanently closed.   

The coconut population – in the palms and on the ground was innumerable.  At a quick glance the faded piles of coconuts looked like skulls. The islands were stunning, a stark contrast to the horrors of the past.

It reminded me of Alcatraz in San Francisco, California and Robben Island in South Africa.

It was hot and humid!

After French Guiana we headed back to Suriname to spend a bit more time.  I’m not a big fan of backtracking but flying out of French Guiana is insane – flights are only to Paris and Martinique.

Oiapoque, Brazil

A shared van showed up right on time.  It’s quite a remarkable system that we’ve experienced in Guyana, Suriname and now French Guiana.  These drivers pick up passengers at their homes, hotels, etc and drop them back off as well – there’s no main terminal like a bus company.

We rode from Cayenne to St. George’s (French border).  The only other passenger was a Polish guy who spoke no English but recited all the countries where he has traveled in the world.  The list was exceptionally long.  He only possessed a tiny, half full backpack that could hardly hold another set of clothes his body odor confirming such a thought.

The shoulder-less roads were windy and the ground undulating with the rise and fall of the jungle.  Wild banana and papaya  trees lined the road, as well as an occasional rusted, burnt out car with its tires missing.  Do they not have means to remove them or this is a public service announcement?  It did give me pause nonetheless.

Our French and Portuguese speaking driver whizzed along breaking for the one lane bridges that sprang up forcing the cooperation of drivers in both directions.

At the border we thought we’d cross the Oyapock River by boat but we signaled the need for a passport stamp, confusing the driver.  He drove us to the police station just before the entrance of the Franco-Brazilian Binational Bridge.

This bridge was finished in 2011 but sat unused for 6 years, citing problems on the Brazilian side.  It was finally opened due to pressure from French Guiana.  It’s the first bridge between French Guiana and a neighboring country.  Since Brazil has not built a customs facility the bridge is only for personal vehicles- no commerce.  It’s only open for 4  hours in the morning and 4 hours in the afternoon and closed on weekends.

The police at the French Guiana border waved his hand in the air when he realized we were only going into Brazil for hours, signaling that we didn’t need a passport stamp.  He kindly called us a taxi and we were on our way.

The immigration office on the Brazilian side was in downtown Oiapoque.  When we explained that we’d only be there for hours the English speaking immigration officer laughed and said he’d stamp our passport as a souvenir.

With his suggestion for the best restaurant we parted ways with our Polish world traveling friend and headed for lunch.  The sleepy little town didn’t offer much so we filled our bellies and strolled.

Fishermen in all these countries net fish from boats on the big rivers and ocean. Some hang their nets in the river and check them every 5-6 hours. Some boats go to sea for 14 days and only have ice to preserve their catch – no refrigeration.

Oiapoque sits on the edge of the Amazon basin, and looks like a thousand other small river towns all the west to Peru – one story wooden buildings, dusty dirt streets, mostly indigenous people, folksy crafts for sale and all the action is along the river

The low tide renders the boats useless in the brackish waters at the river’s edge.  Several fishermen were working on their nets while others were just hanging out.

Per Wikipedia: At the beginning of the 20th century, the village of Oiapoque hosted a political and criminal concentration camp called Clevelândia. In 1922 an agricultural outpost called the Núcleo Colonial Cleveland was transformed into a camp. Many Brazilian anarchist militants were sentenced to hard labour here. Of the 946 prisoners interned at Clevelândia between 1924 and 1927, 491 died. Many of the survivors returned to São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro sickened with malaria

Leaving Oiapoque we crossed the border at the river’s edge since immigration wasn’t an issue.  One of the passengers in our boat was a local English speaking lawyer/musician who relayed stories about the area.

Silver dollar pancake sized raindrops pelted us for a time on our ride back to Cayenne – alternating between deluges and sunshine.

Suriname – the Smallest Nation in South America

The immigration process in Balate, Suriname was quick but the line that led to the counter was long.  We were the last to go through.

The van driver in Guyana said his brother would be waiting for us on the other side along with the same passengers.  Well that ship sailed and we were ushered into a small rickety non-van.  The only seats available – one in the second row and one in the pull down 3rd row next to the luggage.  I was snug as a bug and comfortable.  My view was hindered by the crusty filth on the windows, which bottled water and toilet paper couldn’t clean.  At least I had the luggage to lean on.

*click on photos to enlarge

** my dirty window is below

This part of the drive lasted 3.5 hours.  The young father of two sitting next to Bill started talking to us near the end of the trip.  He is an entrepreneur making and selling natural soaps, and edible food enhancement oils.  He spoke Dutch, English, and Creole. He’d been to the USA with a  UN learning program a few years back for 5 months.  Quite remarkable.

90% of Suriname is covered in rainforest.  The highest proportion of any country in the world per Wikipedia.

As early as the 4th millennium BC Suriname was inhabited by the indigenous.  The British arrived in the 16th century and then the Dutch took control in the late 17th century.  At this time the sugar industry was huge and plantation owners imported and used African slaves until it was abolished in 1863 – then indentured servants were brought over from Asia – the Dutch East Indies and British India.  In 1954 the Netherlands took control and finally, in 1975 Suriname gained its independence.

It is the only country outside of Europe that speaks Dutch.

Dutch

Our destination- Paramaribo – the capital.  Located on the banks of the Suriname River and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Suriname is one of the more diverse nations globally with no one ethnic group forming a majority.  Maroon, Amerindian, Chinese, Hindus, Javanese, Creole, Dutch live and worship side by side.  Add to that a mosque adjacent to a synagogue in Parbo (the local name for Paramaribo, as well as the popular local beer).

On Sunday Chinese and Javanese markets open up selling fruits, vegis and their national food dishes.

Downtown, the colonial Dutch architecture is stunning.  If I squint I glimpse Charleston.  Block after block of tall and proud homes line the streets.

 Crews were setting up for a huge Hindu celebration called Phagwah which was to take place the afternoon we were leaving.  A German singing sensation named The Gentleman (reggae music) and his entourage checked in our hotel with quiet fanfare – one of the headliners for the celebration.

Due to hotel availability, Easter, immigration office hours, etc we decided to head east to French Guiana allowing us to return to Suriname without interruption.

The process for getting to French Guiana was much like the last border crossing.  Land – river -land.  It took 2.5 hours by van to Albina which rests on the Maroni River that separates Suriname and French Guiana.

The ride was stunning.  There was a single lane in each direction with no traffic and not many buildings – it was mostly jungle. Goats and cows grazed in the side of the road.  Where there wasn’t jungle wide canals lined the road separating farmland from the beach on one side and jungle on the other.

As we neared French Guiana the iron rich ground gave way to sandy white soil.

A new high school has been built closer to Albina and children who once took a 2 hour bus ride to Paramaribo for a 7:00 am start time now get to sleep in.

It looks as though, in these three countries, that there is one road, north and south, two lane and paved.  Virtually any other road is dirt, except for the one to the gold mines.

They all seem to have some agriculture and industry between the shore and the jungle/mountains. There are livestock and cowboys on horses, but they don’t look like South American Gauchos.  The sky was gray from burning the jungle.

This immigration process took a whole minute – fastest one ever!

It was a short walk to the river where we boarded a long skinny wooden boat which delivered us to Saint Laurent du Maroni, French Guiana in 15 minutes and our next adventure begins….

Armenia

Armenia – a landlocked country in Western Asia (Caucasus region), sharing its borders with Turkey, Georgia, Iran and Azerbaijan.

Azerbaijan and Armenia are bitter rivals disputing their territory since the 1980’s.  Their current war is in the Nagorno-Karabakh border area.  All of Azerbaijan’s borders are closed to land travel.

We had been using a tourist map that showed areas of Armenia denoting treasured historical and fascinating places to see.

Compare maps:

On our drive to Goris our non-English speaking driver pointed out large amounts of dirt bunkers and with his hands mimicked holding a rifle and made a shooting sound and said Azerbaijan.  Upon searching the internet we realized that we were 100 miles from the conflict area.  Click here to read about it.

*click on photos to enlarge

 We’ve since learned that our passage to Azerbaijan is going to be tenuous once they see Armenian stamps in our passports.  It is understood that we’ll get in but will have to prove we weren’t in this disputed region.

Back to the fun stuff – wowza. The capital city of Yerevan is like a European city with stunning architecture, walking friendly, fabulous sidewalk cafes, parks and decorative fountains galore (most of which were being turned on the day before we left).  It felt very family oriented with parks offering rides and games for children.  Don’t get me wrong old USSR is present but the European charm shines beyond it.

The small Russian Lada cars are commonplace and reminded me of an old times.  Like the old American cars in Havana.

On a clear day you can see Mt. Ararat and said to be the resting place of Noah’s Ark.

It was fascinating to learn that it was here in 301 AD when Gregory the Illuminator converted paganism into Christianity making it the first state to adopt Christianity as their religion.  It was a beautiful but tragic story leading to Gregory being thrown into a pit at Khor Virap for 13 years (I climbed down a long narrow ladder 197’ deep, inside the church, to witness this deep dungeon) only to be removed to save the king from utter madness and change the course of history.  The story reads better than fiction and I encourage you to click on this link  to read about it.

There are stories after stories about Jesus, martyrs, Saints, war, genocide.  The churches (Monasteries) are plentiful, grand and magnificent.

Geghard Monastery (the Monastery of the Spear) is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Carved out of the rocks and allegedly where Jude (Thaddeus) brought and stored the spear that wounded Jesus.

The countryside is stunning.  We’re so lucky to be here when’s it’s green.

Some tid-bits:

  • In the country gas lines are run in pipes above ground.
  • Pulpulka drinking fountains bubble fresh drinking water 24/7 (Armenia is known to have the freshest, clean and natural  drinking water).
  • The soil is rocky and lacking trees.
  • They having a thriving wine industry.  In 2008 wine pots were discovered in a cave dating back some 6,100 years making this the oldest known winery.
  • Small cow herds roam the country and are watched by shepherds.
  • Women (mostly younger) worn oversized blazer.  Perhaps it’s back in season?
  • They believe they escaped COVID by drinking vodka!

 

Lavash made the old traditional way in the countryside and newer more automated way elsewhere.

It was all enchanting and captivating!  Highly recommended.

Maputo, Mozambique

Maputo (sounds like Ma-pu-tu) is the bustling capital city. Previously named Lourenço Marques after a navigator who explored the area in 1544. Upon independence as a Portuguese colony in 1975 it was renamed Maputo. It borders Eswatini and South Africa.

The architecture is a combination of old uninteresting concrete buildings with occasional unique and charming Mediterranean buildings in between – like the creamy middle of an Oreo cookie.

*click to enlarge photos

The city is right next to the port and easy to get to by foot. The streets are lined with jacaranda and flame trees (our favorite from Baja – árbol de fuego).

Armed police were scattered about and security guards stood in doorways which I took as a warning to keep my camera hidden.

The Maputo Central Train station was quiet with only a couple people wandering around. Two passengers napped on a bench engulfed in their luggage. It’s named one of the top 10 most beautiful train stations in the world by Time Magazine and Newsweek.

Outside of the main city center it became lush and hilly. We only took a short ride but it offered a yin to the city center’s yang.

 

And we’re off to Cape Town

We left Maseru, Lesotho around 7:30 pm. After a long drive out and back from the falls our driver wanted to stop by his home to grab some clothes and to drop off his 9 mm handgun (later disclosed).

Two hours later we arrived at our hotel in Bloemfontein, South Africa. Thank goodness the restaurant was still open.

JRR Tolkien, the author of the Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings was born here. However, he moved to England when he was three.

We didn’t have time to explore and we’re off to Beaufort West in the Karoo National Forest – the half point on our drive to Cape Town.

Long gone are the green mountains of Lesotho. It feels like we were transported back to our home state of Nevada – desert and brown. The only difference was the flat top mountains. Although it’s the end of March it’s more like October as they’re heading into winter.

The highway is free of potholes and we are on a mission to get to our next destination. After stops for bathroom breaks, approximately 7 hours later, we rolled into the quaint town of Beaufort West. Old Colonial buildings lined the main road.

This is home town to Christiaan Barnard who, in December 1967, performed the world’s first human heart to heart transplant. Imagine that. Such a feat of medical science in a tiny town in South Africa!

We stayed at the Savoy Hotel equipped with an American diner in its lobby.

Tonight we experienced the power load shedding that has blanketed the country. At 8:00 pm the power shut off. A safety light remained on in the bathroom but otherwise it was dark. So much for charging our devices. We’re pioneers – who needs power?

Power was off and on in the night and in when we left for our last leg of the trip.

It again was startling how similar the landscape was to home until we entered the wine country where vineyard blanketed the horizon. The best advertisement for thirsty travelers.

We said our goodbyes to Stephen in Cape Town, our guide for the past several days. He took good care of us and never lacked for a story to tell. I will give you his information if you decide to go to Lesotho.

*** Thank you for all your kind comments. I want you to know that I am receiving them and I respond to each one. It appears that you are not receiving the replies. I apologize and will see if there is a fix.

More Photos of Lesotho

Photos were taken through the window, out the window, me sitting in the window – legs in body out (the police had a grin when they drove by), through the sunroof and pulled over and out of the car.

Boys go through an initiation to become a man and they paint their animals and face as part of the process.
Oh, their hats…


We visited a yarn manufacturing store.  The owner teaches disabled people (all women but one man) how to make item yarn so that they have a skill.

Meet the Huang Brothers – Fishermen – Keeping with Tradition

It was my honor to meet and photograph the Haung brothers, both at their home and on the Li River in Guilin, China.In about 1948 the eldest brother Yue Ming (now 86) and following thereafter the youngest brother Yue Chuan (now 79) learned the ways of the Cormorant fisherman.An ancient fishing technique where cormorant birds are trained to dive for fish and return their catch to their master’s raft. If not for the snare tied around the bird’s neck – the cormorant would swallow it’s catch whole.The brothers lived on a houseboat until 1978 at which time the local government gave fishermen land. They built a home on this property and still live in it today. It is modest, reachable only by boat and meals are cooked over campfire.Fishing was a way of life until the late 1990’s. Unfortunately, Cormorant fishing has become a lost source of income but the art form still remains.  River pollution, motorized boats and electric rod fishing have made it hard for the birds to successfully fish.

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Meet Mr Xu and his Water Buffalo

Traveling through picture perfect Guilin in China we met Mr. Xu. In the dark of the morning, he and his water buffalo walked over an hour to get to work – arriving just before sunrise.The role of the water buffalo is rapidly changing with the onset of modern machinery and China approving the use of credit – payments over time. More and more the buffalo is becoming a household pet.

Timeless images of Asia wouldn’t be the same if a farmer posed with his tractor…

 

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Photo of the Day 313

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.

Berlin, Germany

November 8, 2016

#memorialtothemurderedjewsofeurope #berlin #germany #holocaustmemorial #fall #fallcolors #history #gray #visitberlin #memorial #photooftheday #photofrommyday2016 #landscape #landscapephotography#cloudyday #landscape #explore #welltraveled #fromwhereistand #tlpicks #doyoutravel #cntraveler #guardiantravelsnaps #lonelyplanet 

St. Petersburg, Russia

Palace SquareBill, the travel agent, discovered that we can hop on a ferry in Helsinki, Finland and get a 72 hour visa St. Petersburg – the cultural capital of Russia.  All we had to do is present  a hotel confirmation from one of Russia’s approved hotels.

A round trip ticket was only $150. and it included 2 nights on the ferry – so we considered the ferry ride free.

St. Petersburg did indeed live up to it’s cultural hype.  We only had 48 hours and it wasn’t near enough.  The Hermitage alone could take weeks.

 

Photo of the Day 309

Town Hall Square in charming Tallinn, Estonia – a UNESCO World Heritage site.

November 4, 2016

#tallinn #estonia #townhallsquare #unesco #visitestonia #winter #snow #landscape #explore #welltraveled #fromwhereistand #tlpicks #doyoutravel #cntraveler #guardiantravelsnaps #lonelyplanet #photofrommyday2016 #photooftheday #sonya7rii

Photo of the Day 304

Come sit with me in Provoo, Finland 

#provoo #finland #winter #winterday #supercold #landscape #explore #welltraveled #fromwhereistand #tlpicks #doyoutravel #cntraveler #guardiantravelsnaps #lonelyplanet #photofrommyday2016 #photooftheday

October 30, 2016

Photo of the Day 303

Uspenski Cathedral in Helsinki, Finland 

October 29, 2016

#uspenskicathedral #helsinki #finland #katajanokka #easternorthodox #cathedral #bluesky #stairs #landscape #explore #welltraveled #fromwhereistand #tlpicks #doyoutravel #cntraveler #guardiantravelsnaps #lonelyplanet #photofrommyday2016 #photooftheday

Photo of the Day 297

Fall in Hyde Park, London.

#fall #hydepark #london #lovers #londonlife #londonscapes #bluesky #photofrommyday2016 #photooftheday

October 23, 2016