Category Archives: Egypt

Cairo, Siwa and Alexandria – Egypt

Another supposedly quick flight from Aswan back to Cairo.  Let me clarify.  All these Egyptian Airline flights are hailed to be one to one and a half hours but they never leave on time, they circle for a half hour before landing and this time the luggage took 45 minutes.  Ultimately not so quick.

Yes, we too freaked out about checking our luggage but Egyptian Airlines is a stickler about the weight of carry on bags so we’ve had to check our “carry-on” suitcases.  Thank goodness nothing was lost.

The plane was supposed to land at 9:20 pm and it wasn’t until 11:45 that we were in bumper to bumper traffic heading to our hotel.  It was in  both directions.  We assumed there was an accident but learned that it was normal.  The only times there wasn’t traffic was from 4:00-6:00 am.

We had a day to hit the areas missed on the first visit weeks ago.

Cairo- named the city of a thousand minarets and for a good reason.  They are everywhere.  The country’s population is approximately 75% Muslim and 25% Christian (referred by the name Coptic Christian which means Egyptian Christian).   We’ve been told many times that they all live together peacefully.

We hired a great driver who spoke very little English but it was his mission to get us safely to all the correct places.  He was so happy because he was recently divorced and didn’t have to listen to blah, blah, blah anymore.  He even mocked her tone and mentioned his new found freedom many times.  I wonder if his wife is singing the same song?

This time Saints Serguis Bacchus Church (one of the oldest churches in Egypt – 4th century) was open. Famous because the Holy Family (Joseph, Mary and Jesus) stayed at this site during the reign of King Herod.

The Cave Church – carved out of the side of the Mokattam mountain seats 20,000 people. 

The church goers and inhabitants are Zabbaleen people and reside in the adjoining area referred to as Garbage City.  30,000 inhabitants live and work there.  The community, approximately 90% Christians, are trash collectors.  It’s crazy – they collect and sort trash!  It is everywhere – loose on the streets, down the alleys, in the buildings, in the back of trucks – everywhere.  The driver freaked out a bit when I asked him to stop so I could get out the take a photo. It’s fascinating.  Click HERE to read a quick article about them.

More photos from Cairo:

The following day we drove 10 hours to Siwa, an oasis in the western desert and which gives true meaning to the term BFE.  We made a short stop in Marsa Matrouh to see the stunning colors of the Mediterranean Sea and where the Egyptians are building hundreds of thousands of homes and resorts from west of Alexandria all the way to Libya.  It’s called Al Alamain.  Someone remarked that it will be like Dubai.  Dubai doesn’t have a trash problem and unfortunately Egypt does.  They’ll have to work on that one.

We had four military stops and saw a missile site on the way.  Apparently Egypt doesn’t trust its neighbor to the west.

Siwa is 30 miles east of Libya.  They have 230 underground springs, too many date palms to count and Siwa Salt Lake but more like individual ponds with a salt destiny 95% compared to the Dead Sea which is 34%.

Siwa mines and sells salt to the world.  The salt trucks command the road to and from town and the sides of the highway glisten with what looks like broken glass but in fact it is the spillage from the trucks.

Already famous, Alexander the Great visited the Oracle of Siwa and thus began his legendary story.  It’s worth a quick read by clicking HERE.

From sunsets to the Dead Mountain, from the oracle to floating in the salt lake, this trip was really worth the long drive.

It took seven hours to drive to Alexandria, our last city to tour in Egypt.  I think after being here for just shy of a month we were Egypted-out.  We caught some of the highlights and after a night here we headed back an airport hotel in Cairo to head to the next country.  Along the way at a rest stop this lion cub (six months old)was sitting on a man’s lap and after petting him for a bit he asked if I wanted to hold him –  all 66 pounds.

Some tidbits we picked up along our Egyptian journey:

When the call to prayer starts it’s like Row Row Row Your Boat. Each Mosque starts about a second or two apart.

Muslim men can have four wives.  They divorce and can marry a girl as young as 16.

When a plot of land is purchased a building permit is bought and depending on the lot size the house can range from four to nine floors.  The first generation builds the first floor and then their children build the next floors making a family compound.

Women can drive but it’s unusual.  In Siwa women do not drive.

Donkey carts are still a form of transportation.  Tuk-tuks – either the kind that carry people or the ones that have a truck bed are widely used.  You see both in the cities but lots in the countryside.

The people are over the top kind and friendly.  Their customer service and concern for our welfare was immense.  At first we thought it was fake but learned it’s their way.

There are lots of road police check points out of the cities.  Being American seemed to create a small fuss.  Many drivers told us that they paid more attention to Americans because they worried about our government’s retribution if something should happen to us. At one check point the driver told the police we were from England so we could drive on by. It felt more like they didn’t trust us. Who knows?

All monuments, temples, museums, etc. are guarded by police, military and/or undercover (not so much as their weapons revealed) agents and were armed with pistols and/or AK 47.

Shopkeepers, taxi drivers, and hawkers are relentless.

It was interesting the response we got from people when we told them we were from either America or Canada.

Young Chinese tourist flock here and seem more interested in taking photos of themselves than seeing the sites.  The girls are beautiful (their outfits a bit revealing). They pose for photos and then look at their images in the camera and pose again.  I asked Grok about it and in China they have two apps similar to Instagram and it has become a thing to travel to foreign places to take photos and post them to their social media accounts.  They were oblivious to everyone around them.

It seems like every man is named Mohammed and if not it’s Ahmed followed by Saed.

If a home/land owner digs on their property and finds ruins it’s a nightmare as the government would seize their property.  So putting in a swimming pool might be risky.

There are plenty of explanations for how all the pyramids and temples were built but regardless it is hard to wrap our heads around it.  It’s beyond what we can imagine.  There is so much more to discover.

Heading East to go West…

 

Nile Cruise

After three nights in Luxor our private egyptologist, Safwat, picked us up at the hotel and took us straight out to see the first temple (I’ll list them later for all you amateur archaeologist).  Wowza!

The size and scale is hard to fathom.  As we learned the hieroglyphic stories from day to day – characters and symbols began to repeat themselves and we ourselves felt like pre-school archeologists!

*click on photos to enlarge and tap on the blue words to watch a video of the cruise boat and diesel soaked air

Ra,  Osiris, Isis,  Horus, Anubis, Ramses II, Hatshepsut, Tutankhamun, Nefertiti, Nefertari…..  The stories are fascinating.  The Pharaohs’ and  the Queens’ egos  were humongous and their engineering mind blowing.  The colors are original.  Egypt does not repaint the antiquities.

After the visiting the first temple we checked into our “local” Nile cruise boat – 67 rooms. Over four nights we’d travel from Luxor to Aswan.

Our rooms were large and one up from basic.  Meals were buffets and sufficient.  The gin and tonics – perfect.

What we weren’t prepared for was the vast number of boats.  Oh my! They docked by tying up one boat next to another some six deep.  Unless you were the first boat tied up at shore you had to walk through the first, second, third boat to get to your own.

The air was gross and dirty. The result of 60 plus boats burning diesel fuel.  The way the boats honked at one another and playfully maneuvered around as if playing tag in the toxic cloud was rather amusing.

If you want to book a Nile cruise don’t waste your money paying for a balcony because when you dock next to another boat (which is the majority of time) your view is into the next room.  We went the cheap route and got a sliding glass door which was beautiful when we sailed.  However, we spent more time on deck than in the room.

The pace was wonderful.  Wake up, eat, tour, back to the boat for lunch, chill, back out to tour in the afternoon or evening, back to the boat, cocktails, dinner and bed.

We saw: Karnak, Luxor Temple, Valley of the Kings, Mortuary Temple of  Harshepsut, Colossi of Memnon, Temple of Edfu, Temple of Kom Ombu, The High Dam, Temple of Isis on Philae, and the Unfinished Obelisk.  After all this, in Aswan, we took a small boat ride to bird watch on the cataracts of the Nile and visited a Nubian village where Jonel and I got black henna tattoos.

In Aswan, to unwind and luxuriate we are staying three nights at the historic Old Cataract Hotel (built in 1899) on the bank of the Nile. It is decadent.  We are on our last night right now.

Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile while she stayed in her room 2 doors down.  Lady Diana and many dignitaries also spent time here.

We lounged by the pool and walked around town.  We even took part in our own death on the Nile by enjoying McDonald’s on the Nile.  We split a Big Mac!

Mark and Jonel stayed two nights and are now making their way back home first by flying back to Cairo and visiting the Pyramids in Giza.

And we’re off tomorrow for another quick plane ride…

Sharm el Sheikh and Mt. Sinai in Egypt

This time we had a long day getting from New Delhi, India to Sharm el Sheikh, Egypt.  We flew through Dubai (plane had a lounge) and Cairo (aplane had ashtrays in first class).

It’s a vacation from our vacation.

We stayed at the Renaissance Hotel at the tip of the Sinai Peninsula on the Red Sea. The resort is huge and is more like a timeshare than a hotel – unbeknownst to us most guests booked as an all- inclusive resort.

Wikipedia says the population is 13,000 but everyone we talked to says nobody lives in Sharm. I think what they mean is nobody is “from” Sharm.  Everyone is from somewhere else in Egypt.  Workers work for a month or two then get ten or so days off and go back home.  Housing is provided by the employers.

Sharm is the scuba diving and snorkeling capital of the Red Sea.  Our hotel was full of Egyptians, Russians, and Italians.  American tourists typically do not vacation here.

Sharm was originally a military base and fishing town and in 1968 Israel made it into a tourist center. In 1956 Israel concurred the Sinai Peninsula and returned it back to Egypt in 1957.  The UN Peacekeeping force was stationed there until the Egyptian president kicked them out in 1967.  In 1968 there was a six day war and Israel gained control once again.  In 1979 the Israel-Egyptian Peace Treaty was signed in Washington DC and in 1982 the Peninsula reverted back to Egypt.  Phew.  It’s like watching a game of pong.

Friends from home, Mark and Jonel, flew in to meet us for an Egyptian escapade.

First adventure – a 3.5 hour drive to Mt. Sinai to see where Moses received the 10 Commandments and to St. Catherine’s Monastery to see the Burning Bush where God spoke to Moses.

Our driver, Mohamed, from Cairo, young, handsome and super personable, drove us through endless treeless mountains. On the side of the road there was scrub brush, an occasional acacia tree, sprinkled in with camels.

The mountains are endless.  Dry, without a sign of life.  Some are rounded and smooth as if time rubbed the edges off.  Others are like shale, splintering, and flaking off.  Trails of red and black stone filled grooves and made long meanderings paths on the mountain side.  Tented Bedouin camps are now mostly replaced by concrete houses.

Due to Easter week, the monastery would be closed.  We booked to stay at an inn next to the monastery hoping to glean spiritual vibes from the location.  At least we could see the historic mountain.

Most people come to climb Mt. Sinai.  It’s arduous and done by the majority in the middle of the night to be able to see sunrise from the top.  This was not in the cards for our group.  We were good with a visual from the ground.

Jonel and I tried to sneak into the Monastery and were busted by a monk named Ramadan.  We begged and begged for a look around to no avail.   Moments later our wonderful driver, Mohamed, more convincing than we, got us in.  Quick, quick – you have 5 minutes.

Ramadan gave us the “speed dating” tour.  We saw the well where Moses met his wife Zipporah, and the Burning Bush where God spoke to Moses.   We were not able to enter the Orthodox Church but we actually got to see what we came to see.

It really is remarkable how people lived and got around in ancient times.  This year is my 4th consecutive year of reading the Old Testament and being here really makes the Bible come alive.  While reading I try to visualize the surroundings.  Even by watching Biblical movies it’s hard to really grasp the barrenness of this area.  Seeing it gave me a new profound appreciation for how tough times were.  No shade, no water, no food – nothing.

The inn was basic.  Two twin beds but had a private bath with hot water, a simple dinner and breakfast.

Back to the resort the following day where we partook in scuba diving, snorkeling in the chilly, turquoise waters, boating with hundreds of dolphins, and just being plain lazy.  A perfect retreat from the hustle and bustle.

Now off to Cairo…

Around the World in 72 days

By the numbers:

72 days from Reno, Nevada west to Charleston, South Carolina.

39 beds

27 flights and approx. 40,000 miles

24 trains

23 countries

10 buses

9 boats

numerous taxi’s

and…

1 camel

 

 

*photo – A bit of home in Frankfurt, Germany

 

Pyramids of Egypt

Monstrous, awe-inspiring, unbelievable – the pyramids of Egypt.  It has been asked too many times but how did they do that?

We decided to stay in Giza at that base of the pyramids instead of nearby Cairo. This allowed us to come and go at leisure.  No tours.

Early – before the tourists get there even if it’s a bit hazy for photos. If you walk up to the top furthest from the Sphinx entrance it is fairly quiet.

The views are vast.

It is definitely a tourist economy. Camel drivers, horse carriages and single horse drivers all fighting for your business. Tolerable. Not all the hawkers are as described on the internet.  Just stay away from the entrances.

We walked and walked. Observing and snapping photos. Succumbing to a camel ride to capture a photo of all of the pyramids lined up.  Bill and I shared a camel.  “Don’t hold on and go with the flow.” said the camel driver. Easier said than done but we got he hang of it.
Bill and I walked a bit out of bounds and stumbled upon a security area. We asked if we could take photos.  We got a wide smile – a yes – an invite inside and a cup of tea.  The hefe put his finger to his lips as to say “shhh” and pointed to an area off limits prompting us to follow.  Bill was gung-ho – looked at me with a gleam in his eye. The guard flung his AK47 flung over his shoulder and I said no.

We stayed at the Le Meridien because you can see the pyramids from the hotel. It was a perfect respite after the dust and dirt of the pyramids. We lounged around the pool every afternoon. What a money maker that must be.  Around the clock, tours showed up in droves. The lobby was always full of people – breakfast before 8 was packed and loud.

Didn’t think we would ever get here.  So delighted to stand in front of one of the world’s biggest mysteries.