Bill and I slept with a mosquito last night. That darn thing buzzed our ears for hours. After jumping out of bed and turning on the lights 4 times trying to kill that f**king thing Bill ultimately smashed it in his ear. We only had 2 hours left to sleep.
Another glorious day through wooded areas on cushy paths and rural neighborhoods on pavement.
Ferns, ferns – everywhere.
We had the best Pilgrim’s lunch today. It is where I fell in love with Fabado – cooked beans similar to pinto beans. I dressed them with vinegar, salt and a bit of Tobasco Sauce. Unbeknownst to the rest of the group I have never eaten a bowl of beans. My new favorite meal! When Bill and I walked the Camino Frances we learned to eat the Pilgrim’s menu (a starter, entre and dessert) at lunch time instead of the usual 8:30 mealtime. Opting for a glass of wine and less heavy tapa in the evening.
We walked 28,330 steps and 12.02 miles into Cesantes, Spain where some of our rooms overlook the Atlantic.
The Camino book said we would be walking through the burbs of Porto for 2 days. It would be level filled with pavement and highway traffic.
Our day did not look like that. We had small towns, eucalyptus forests, hot houses, rockslide, detours, dirt paths, Hugh inclines and a marvelous day filled with the ever present f-ing dog barking.
The reason is – we walked 9 miles east of the Camino – following the yellow arrows the whole way! What the heck? Who put them there and why?
Miraculously we came upon a BMW filled with 4 people who with Darrell and Roxanne and weird cirtumstances too long and crazy to explain – determined that we were WAY off course. They became our saviors – ordered taxis to the town we were supposed to be in – Vilarinho (only 2 hours and 45 minutes away by walking).
Chappy, Rich, Ricardo, Grande, Cheapy, Richard and Dick has acquired a few new names along the Camino – Chapmeister, Cheapmeister and Ricky Alan not to mention the new 2 blisters on his toes. Every step reminds him that he’s alive!
My Fitbit said we walked 39,604 steps and 16.76 miles. Chappy’s GPS said 18.1 miles. Tomorrow should be around the same.
Another foggy start but the sun broke through much earlier today. We peeled off the layers earlier than usual. The sun makes our packs feel heavier.
We climbed straight uphill out of Agueda into a commercial area – our first experience with traffic lights – they cause congestion – roundabouts keep the traffic moving.
The yin and yang of walking….. ugly industrial areas to beautiful abandoned mansions.
Noisy construction zones to peaceful fishing on a Roman bridge.
Pavement to acres and acres of eucalyptus trees with trucks harvesting the same. ***In Portugal it is imperative to own a barking dog. ***In Portugal out of the cities it’s essential to own a tractor to work the fields and to go to town for dinner and shopping.
In Portugal Cala lilies grow wild
and some decorators have a quirky sense of repurposing.
22,634 steps and 10.15 miles into Albergaria-a-Velha.
Today, we Pilgrims marched to the beat of Darrel – he kept our pace. Who better but a drummer – the metronome man.
We mostly walked the highway – sharing the road. It was loud, dangerous and DRY – skirting the low laying muddy paths.We have now stood inches from an 18 wheeler – multiple 18 wheelers – two 18 wheelers side by side going 70!
On the backroads Bill charmed a group of women – offered a sweet woman his walking sticks in exchange for her cane. She kindly accepted and didn’t want to give them back.34,616 steps and 14.71 miles- all on pavement. Our bodies are angry.
Darrell found a great little apartment in Coimbra for tonight – wall to wall laundry.Tomorrow – the authentic Camino – hopefully with no deviations.
We started today in the fog – it was cool, mystical and invigorating -lifting by noon. It was hilly – testing our lungs – up and down – up and down. We followed a Roman road paralleled by stone walls – tall grasses, olive orchards, wine vineyards and colorful flowers – the muddy paths forced us to trespass. Then plan B – the occasion muddy path turned into MUD all the time. We headed for the highway and rural town roads. Pavement equals pain! It’s rough on the body.
We endured – walked 46,881 steps and 19.91 miles.
Now in Rabaçal, Portugal. Our pension is marginal at best. The only game in town. 29 beds but private rooms – $15 euro per person – sheets and scuzzy blankets – no towels. It’s a bed and we’re grateful.